Morris Minor and researching other classics

[chrisd87]

As a classic to use everyday, the late 1098cc Minor is probably one of the best, along with the MGB, Midget and Mini. Not sure what the insurance situation is with those others, but as already said many classic insurers no longer cover under- 21/25s, as too many have been jumping on the bandwagon of cheap classic insurance. Fortunately, Footman James will still insure young drivers on Minors through the club scheme.

You mentioned you like the Rover 2000 (presumably you mean the P6, rather than SD1?). Lovely cars, and very much more sophisticated to drive than a Minor, but also very much harder to work on, with inboard rear disc brakes, independent rear suspension and an OHC engine. Fuel consumption is likely to be the wrong side of 25mpg, particularly with an automatic gearbox.

If properly maintained, Minors are generally reliable and quite economical. You should get in the region of 40mpg, although that'll obviously depend on driving style and how well set-up the car is. I've no idea what the performance of a 1300 Dolomite is like, but I suspect somewhat better than a Minor. Motorways are perfectly doable, although not the Minor's forte, being a little noisy and having a maximum cruising speed of 60-65mph on a standard car.

No modifications are necessary for everyday use, although there are lots of upgrades to choose from if you so wish. Front brakes are one of the most common major modifications, as the standard drums aren't the best (although adequate if they're in good condition).

Parts are readily available from a number of suppliers, and can be had very cheaply. Unfortunately, as you seem to have discovered with your Triumph, not all parts are of satisfactory quality. There have been problems in the past with batches of rotor arms, points sets, rear springs, front suspension legs, &c., plus problems with some ill-fitting reproduction panels. Don't let that put you off, though. You can get a perfectly servicable example of just about any part you're likely to need in normal home servicing/repair.

Prices for decent cars seem to have been on the rise for the past couple of years, but you should be able to get something reliable and resonably presentable for about £1500. If you can't weld, it's generally much better to buy something with a solid structure but tatty interior/exterior or known mechanical faults, rather than something with a nice shiny coat of paint and sound mechanicals, but a rotten/dubiously repaired underside. Examples of both do exist.

[morris van]

I own a 1971 Morris 1000 van and a 1970 MG Midget.I have owned the Morris for fourteen months and in 3000 miles it has had two coils,plug leads,two sets of points and condensers.My MG I have owned 21 years,seventeen and a half years on the road as I restored it when I bought it and i have done 42000 miles never and had new plug leads or coil and only one set of points and condenser.The Morris is £70 more to insure than the MG.

[bmcecosse]

2 coils ????? What's wrong with them? Did you (can you) put a meter on them to see the resistance ? Because, as we well know by now, It's 'never' the coil !

[morris van]

A friend did test the coils on my van as he is a mechanic and said both were faulty and he has checked all the electrics.The one that has been on my van has been on about seven months and touch wood it is running alright now as I use it most days all year round.

[bmcecosse]

I seriously doubt they were faulty......although, the nasty modern versions are very definitely not as reliable as good old Lucas coils - and often, a 9 volt coil is supplied on the assumption it is for a 'ballast' ignition system. Such a coil gives great sparks for a very short time when run on 14 volts........

[morris van]

The coils were faulty as he tried my coils on his Morris and it would not start and he tried his coil on mine and it started.

[mike.perry]

[quote="C6Dave"]With a Minor you have to remember that it's basically 1940's (with later 'improvements') technology

'Improvements' is a matter of opinion