Where can I get rad hoses WHICH FIT?

[MikeNash]

Well friends, that's just it! Where can I get hoses that fit?

All that stops my rebuilt 1098 engine from starting is its lack of coolant - and I can't fill it 'cos the brand new lower hose I've got won't fit. Can you recommend someone who can sell me the right part? (During the rebuild I bought many parts from several Well Known Suppliers and for the life of me I can't remember who forwarded the lower hose, otherwise I'd complain.) This hose has to fit over 29mm (1 1/8in) on the pump inlet, 26mm (1 1/16in) on the lower rad connection and 14mm (9/16in) on the heater pipe, but its so inflexible that while its 24 mm bore can just about be forced over the 26mm of the lower rad connection it cannot go over the 29mm pump inlet. And then it'll never go over the heater pipe. (It has a sticker on it saying "Kevlar reinforced" which I know several peeps have warned us against - and quite right too!)

The top hose is much better; its far more flexible and of a convoluted pattern with a fabric reinforcement so that I can bend around bend and easily stretch it, unlike the new lower hose which very stiff and unyielding. The top hose's 25mm (1inch) bore easily slips over the 26mm of the top rad connection and the cylinder head outlet, and with little force can even go over the 29mm of the pump intake showing that its the right material even if the wrong shape for the lower position. So who should I order hoses from, indeed who (apart from yerselves) would even know what I'm talking about?

Your advice is eagerly awaited, MikeN.

[IslipMinor]

Is the water pump for a 1275 engine? The inlet is larger than the 948/1098. I have the same 'problem' with our 1380.

2 things to try with the existing hose:

Soak the water pump end of the hose in boiling water for a few minutes, apply some grease to the water pump inlet and then twist and push the hose on while it is still warm - it does work!

If it really doesn't, then 'soften' the water pump end of the hose by placing the hose on a hard solid surface and hammer end of the hose as if to flatten it. Turn the hose so that the 'softening' is all the way round. Grease inside the hose and on the pump inlet, then twist and push the hose on.

I have used the 'Kevlar Reinforced' hose for a number of years and have had no problems at all.

[moggiethouable]

As a material silicone is more pliable than rubber and specified as having a higher working temperature.
I think that may to some be overkill, but if you want superior flexibility thats the key.
I have supplied silicone tube for various industrial applications and found it ok.
Most of the Named dealers supply in silicone also.

[JOWETTJAVELIN]

Don't waste money on model specific hoses, especially when they are simple ones with no take-offs, like the majority on the Minor.

You can buy coolant hose in any diameter by the yard from eBay suppliers, then cut it to length. This works out a LOT cheaper than buying the special hoses. Worked for me on the rad top and bottom and heater, plus you have some spare for emergencies etc.

[MikeNash]

Thanks for all your speedy replies. As I've got it anyway, I'll give the hose a boiling and a bashing as IslipMinor suggests and see how I get on - I've nothing to lose, have I? (I'm fairly sure the pump is for a 1098 - it fits and seems right but I've never seen one off a 1275 to compare.) If I fail I'll go for a silicone type as Moggiethingy recommends. (And if I can't find one I'll be back!) Re Jowett's comment on specific hoses, my "fallback position"was to make a junction out of copper central heating fittings for the heater junction together with a copper rightangle bend and then use two hoses such as go between the top of the rad and the cylinder head.

I'll let you how it goes, regards MikeN.

[MikeNash]

Well folks, I did as Islip suggested.

First I drilled out the heater connection with a 10mm drill (raising it from a useless 7mm dia) and then gave the hose a boiling in the garage eleectric kettle one end at a time. I found that the best way to get a permanent stretch was to force in its orifices anything that was about the right size and let the hose cool over night; the nearest things at hand were the end of the handle of the garden loppers for the 29mm outlet to the pump, a screwdriver handle for the 26mm rad inlet at the bottom and for the heater input a small tack hammer head. After cooling and with some grease on the engine bits it went on a treat!

Thanks for the advice, Mike Nash.