Spray painting booth

[MarkyB]

Really useful info, but hard to read.
Try an occasional full stop and enter key.

[kennatt]

back to school eh. ? :' " 2 " . . < > Please feel free to edit it, I'm a mechanic not a grammar student.

[tysonn]

Nicely put!I managed to read it pefectly easily thanks(maybe coz I'm a grammar school boy) ;-).Got the roof painted today and it went fine.The dry edge probs arent as prevalent with 2 pack as it dries slower.I'm pretty tall and managed off 2 stepladders.I much prefer the painting in bits method as its far easier to control the fall out from a couple of panels at a time.OK more material wastage,more work masking and remasking etc and it wouldnt work with metallics.Only the panels round the woodwork now.

[MarkyB]

Please feel free to edit it

I have, just to make it easier to read.



Well yes I have both type the gravity fed has the container above the gun so less chance ,if any ,of hitting the surface,but most gravity guns only have an air hole in the top and if you need to tilt the gun at an angle then you risk tipping the paint out of the hole or out of the cap since they are only screw on without a locking bar,hence the cloth wrap.

The suction gun usually have a small tube from the top on the container into the securing bar so lift the level of when it might spill.But it still can, those plastic inserts do help.

Of course only filling the gun to half the container also minimises this but you need to judge the right amount of paint because if you run out before the first full coat,by the time you refill ,the paint has flashed off and you will get a hard area of overspray when finishing where you left off.

The gravity guns are regarded as high volume low pressure,and to be honest work as good as suction the benefit is that if you only have a small compressor they don't use as much air,and they produce very little overspray because they work at about 20lbs pressure as long as you get the paint thin enough,they don't seem to like 50/50 mix.needs to be a little bit thinner, or higher pressure which defeats the object a bit.

As said the roof is by far the hardest to do,its not possible to hold the gun at the correct so that the fan is at right angle to the surface ,the best you can do is to hold it as far over as you can before covering the air hole,and rather than aiming for a 50% overlap on each stroke as you would do if at right angles,aim for a 25% and do twice as many passes,you will get stripes on your first attempt but if you give it plenty of coats you will eventually eliminate them to the point where a good cut back with compound will get a good even finish.

You will also find that with the minors ,as you know,the gutter runs down the side of the roof so you are faced with where to start and finish the roof,ie when does the roof become the body,there is a body moulding running across the back of the car side to side and its tempting to stop the roof painting at this point,I did once, don't stop at the moulding because its difficult to get rid of any hard lines or overspray because its easy to rub through to the primer on the hard edges of the moulding (Don't ask why I know this )spray to well below this moulding then when you do the rear panel and wings and come up to where you stopped and its easier to blend the edges.

You do know to start at the roof and work downwards if you start at the bottom and go up when you do the roof there will be lots of overspray on the bottom panels to cut back unless you mask off and do each panel separately,which is probably the better way for a diy type compressor.

But then you still have the problem of where to mask off the rear panel and roof, With a pro compressor that will not run out of air I would think that the boot surround to the wings and roof would be regarded as one panel there is no clear point at which one stops and the other starts,I also take the bonett off cos its similar to the roof,you can get a better angle. GOOD LUCK

[stag36587]

Wow that's a long post now but definitely relates well to Markyb's photo strap line