Morris won't start

[gatsby989]

Please help a newbie.

Started right up yesterday after sitting for a couple weeks. Drove around a bit, and it was sputtering / stuttering, which it has done before, but it always went away after warming up well. I mentally attributed it to running rich, needing the fouling to burn off the spark plugs. But that's probably just wishful thinking. Anyway, it didn't go away this time. Then it died at an intersection and wouldn't start again.

Fuel is getting in the carb, and the starter cranks, but it just won't fire up. I've read that I need to "check for spark," but I don't really know what that means or how to do it. If someone could explain, that would be great.

The contacts in the distributor looked like they weren't opening at all. So I adjusted it so that now it opens and closes when you turn the engine by hand, but still it won't start. If I take out a spark plug, and just set it on the head with the HT cable attached, should I be able to see a spark when I hit the starter?

Also, the distributor appears to be a "DM2" Will replacement parts for a DM 25D work? Or some other model?

Thanks all!

[bmcecosse]

Yes - you should see a spark and yes 25D parts are correct. Def put the rotor arm back in after resetting the points ?

[gatsby989]

OK, I'm not seeing any spark. I have to admit I almost did forget the rotor arm, but yes, I did put it back in.

[chrisd87]

Did you set the points gap to the correct clearance using a feeler gauge, or just by eye? The gap needs to be reasonably near the correct value, else you might not get a spark, or only a very weak one. It needs to be set to 15 thou.

[gatsby989]

Yes, I used a feeler gauge to set it to .015 of an inch. How "tight" should it be on the feeler gauge? I can slide it pretty easy through the points.

[chrisd87]

I normally set it so the contacts are just very lightly gripping the feeler gauge as it's inserted. Sounds like you've set it reasonably close, though, so you should be getting a spark. Perhaps try renewing the condenser?

[David53]

I can't resist.......Maybe it's the coil

[bmcecosse]

Errr... NO! It won't be the coil...... Slide is near enough for points - you will need to check for power at the coil - then at the points and so on . No short cut I'm afraid.

[dalebrignall]

go for a new dizzy with electronic ignition from accuspark i needed to fit one to my new engine as the one on the car was changed for some reason .its fit and forget,very reliable .

[kennatt]

the easiest way to check the coil is to take the HT lead from the dizzy,the one that goes to the coil and hold it close to the engine block with insulated pliers and with ign on flick the points open with a screwdriver you should see and hear a fat spark from the end of the lead to the block,if you don't then it is the coil or connection and power to it/ then work backward to the dizzy and points and power to it. Its a very simple system,also check the small wire inside the dizzy can break inside the insulation. Good luck

[gatsby989]

Thanks all for the suggestions. I found this troubleshooting guide: http://www.spridgetmania.com/ArticleV.c ... layID=2140

As suggested there, I took the HT lead from the middle of the coil and held it about 1/8" from the coil connection, and cranked the engine. I got sparks, but I wouldn't describe them as fat. I put in new spark plugs, so the problem must be in the dizzy, or leads to the plugs.

Does anyone have a picture of a what a new, good condition cap / contacts look like? The points in the cap don't look burnt, but they do look worn. But I have nothing to compare it to, so I don't know if it's in the realm of normality or not. Attached is a pic of my cap.



Also, if I put a test lamp between the two low tension leads of the coil, it flashes when you crank the engine, which I understand means that the points are opening and closing correctly.

I guess I'll have to order some stuff and see...[frame][/frame]

[MarkyB]

There is a known issue with modern rotor arms, the other link in the HT chain, red "high power" ones work, ones with a rivet have problems sometimes.

[Dean]

Silly question.. but I've done it myself, worth eliminating. The connections within the ends of the leads are fully pushed down and onto to the dizzy cap connections? It's so easy to push the rubber cover of the HT leads back on the plastic lug of the dizzy, without thinking the bits inside have to connect to something.

Also clean the top of the rotor arm, the centre lead must make contact with it via the centre aluminium lug within the dizzy. The lug should press in and out freely.

You should have as a matter of course, a spare dizzy cap, rotor arm and condenser. Buying some spare ones would help you (in a process of elimination exercise) find if any of these parts on your car are faulty.

As someones else has mentioned, make sure the condenser is wired up correctly. It is easy to wire it up and create a short somewhere. There is also an earth cable that connects to one of the condenser screws, check to make sure this is all present and correctly wired up.

[gatsby989]

Thanks for the replies, all. I replaced the points, condenser, and the rotor arm with one of the red rivetless ones. It started right up, and so far runs without stuttering as it occasionally had done before. I'm considering replacing the cap and the spark plug leads, just to renew everything while I'm at it. One of the leads is slightly mangled.

Also, I'm not sure that the vacuum advance is working. If I suck on the end of the vac advance line, nothing moves.

[bmcecosse]

Well done - try the old rotor arm again - just to see if it works. If not - throw it away..... The points plate must move when you suck - if not - you need a new vac advance..And so you may as well get a new dizzy from simonbbc or accuspark... I suggest a 45D is the better dizzy..... But I guess if you have just bought a bunch of spares for a 25D - you had better stay with that model!

[brother_morris]

Hello there,

I am also experiencing the same 'juddering' of the engine which gets so bad you have to pull over. I thought perhaps moisture was getting into the distributor so had been spraying some WD40 in which SEEMED to help clear the problem but perhaps this was coincidence?

Called (crept) into my local classic car garage and they adjusted the gap in the points to 15 thousand.... which seemed to fix the problem but then the next evening the car was doing it again! Would it be possible for this to close up again?

I will check the spark plugs in a minute as have seen this can also be an issue and i have some spares!

Currently the car fires up (perhaps not the spark plugs) but will then die and judder instantly.

Any advice?!

Richard

[bmcecosse]

What was the gap before they 'adjusted' it - or did they just fiddle about and say that's them set.......... In your case - I would seriously consider the condenser as my first suspect - followed by the rotor arm......

[MarkyB]

Chuck about an egg cup of petrol down the carb and see if it runs for any longer.
If you aren't getting a click or 2 from the petrol pump give it a gentle beating till it does!

[brother_morris]

It was at 500 before being adjusted.

[brother_morris]

Have you seen this?

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2qp5CPUIenM