I am currently rebuilding a 1098 engine for my girlfriends Morris and the head is currently away for hardened valve seats to be fitted. One thing i am wondering though is if the standard valves are ok or if i need hardened valves as well for a true unleaded conversion? Most sites only talk about hardened seats but i have just noticed that hardened valves can be purchased as well.
Well - you are wasting your money......'unleaded' is not necessary unless high/hard mileage is planned. But yes - you will need the later spec hard exhaust valves - and these have a different collet and cap arrangement - so you will need 4 caps and 8 collets to suit. Whatever you do - set exhaust valve gaps to 15 thou and check/reset every 3000 miles.......
Well the car did over 7,000 miles between the last 2 MOT's and is used to blast up and down the A1 twice a week so i believe it is necessary, plus the misses can't open the child caps on the fuel additives
NO! That's the point - you will need the later A+ type and caps to suit. And 'additives' are a waste of money anyway......
See here for the valves - and ask them to supply collets and caps to match. http://www.minispares.com/Product.aspx? ... 367&title=
You MUST NOT mix up collets/caps/valves of different types - dropped valve disaster will follow.
Note the price difference......at £3:50 I would SERIOUSLY doubt the quality of these valves - there's a reason the Minispares ones are priced higher...... But yes - they say they use the early collets, so go that route if you are willing to run these valves. And yes - there have been many different collet designs over the years !
Got the head back this weekend and built everything back up. Hopefully the new engine will be fitted next week if the weather clears up [frame][/frame]
Probably worth replacing the bypass hose with the solid type before you fit the engine in the car.
The type you have fitted tend to be a bit fragile in service.
"Once you break something you will see how it was put together"
However, I'd ditch the K&N-type air filter if the engine is otherwise standard. To avoid possible lean-running issues, you'll need to have the carb set up properly (most probably with a different needle). They also tend to be quite noisy, and doesn't have an inlet for the rocker cover breather.
[img]http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/chrisd87/DSC00749.jpg[/img][img]http://i31.photobucket.com/albums/c390/chrisd87/med_gallery_128_45_1416415.jpg[/img]
Sarah - 1970 Minor 1000 2-dr
Maggie - 1969 Minor 1000 4-dr
MarkyB wrote:Probably worth replacing the bypass hose with the solid type before you fit the engine in the car.
The type you have fitted tend to be a bit fragile in service.
Thanks i did think that but the hose i have fitted is a thick silicone one which i have had good success with in other cars as opposed the regular hose that has left her stranded in the past
However, I'd ditch the K&N-type air filter if the engine is otherwise standard. To avoid possible lean-running issues, you'll need to have the carb set up properly (most probably with a different needle). They also tend to be quite noisy, and doesn't have an inlet for the rocker cover breather.
Thankyou
I am going to have a go with the k&n style as i fancy a bit of induction noise and i am a bit of an engine tart If i do find that the fuelling is a bit off where is the best place to get other needles as i don't mind having a play about. And i have something planned for the rocker cover breather
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