Torsion Bar Removal.

[DavidJay]

Hi, Can someone, please, tell me how to remove a torsion bar before I resort to my bigger hammer. I have looked at various posts and most of them seem to change the subject and find ways of doing a job without removing them. According to Mr Haynes, the arm that is bolted to the cross member slides forward on the torsion bar and then, I assume the whole bar slides back so it can be removed. I am aware of the splines and their importance. Is this the correct/only technique because mine does not want to move at all. Is it just rusted/stuck and I have to persevere? Also is there tension in the bar that I have to somehow reduce when trying to remove it.

Thanks

[chrisryder]

There is tension in the bar at full droop, as the rebound stop (under the damper arm) stops the torsion bar unwinding any further. With a jack under the bottom trunnion, raise until the damper arm lifts off the rebound stop slightly. You then need to disconnect the top trunnion from the damper and lower the jack to 'unwind' the torsion bar to its unloaded position.

You'll then need to split the lower arm of the suspension, bringing the pressed (front half) forward. This then gives you the exposed front side of the cast (rear half) arm to hit with a soft-faced mallet. This then slides that arm down its spline to disconnect it from the eyebolt pin. It doesn't need to go all the way off its spline, so you shouldn't lose its position. But just in case you go too far, before sliding it off the spline, measure the distance from the end of the arm to the floor, so you can replicate that upon refitment.

This should now mean that the front end of the torsion bar is released from the body.

For the rear, you just need to remove the small bolt that goes through the crossmember (which goes through the adjuster plate) and the other bolt which goes into the end of the torsion bar from the rear side of the crossmember.

It should all fall away from the car now.

Remember to have the car supported on axle stands at all times, with any wheels removed placed under the car for your own safety.

[oddbod]

I ALMOST removed my Torsion Bar,but didn't need to in the end. Firstly,they are "handed" to a particular side of the car,I guess after 40+ years of twisting in 1 direction they would be,so they should go back on the same side they came off.When you have split the 2 suspension arms,they become"front" & "rear". The rear one is the one under tension and is the one that needs lowering slowly,I used a bit of old Bike inner tube between the jack and the rear arm to prevent slippage. When the tension is removed from the rear arm the Large Persuader comes into its own. DO NOT strike the rear arm where the hole for a bolt passes through,this will "spread" the metal (cast I think) and lead to cleaning out the hole after you realise the bolt will no longer pass through the hole. To release the rear arm from the splines I heated the Bottom of the arm where the Torsion Bar passes through on the front side,then I applied a Wax candle to the Top of the arm where the Tbar passes.The wax melted and passed along the splines and was visible coming out of the Tbar. Take a Hammer ( I used 2lb,but your preference may differ) use a block of Hardish Wood pressed against the rear suspension arm as close to the Tbar as possible,strike SMARTLY against the wood,maybe a couple of times and it WILL give a bit. Then,using the wood block,and having lubricated the small gain at the FRONT of the Tbar,strike the REAR,yep the REAR of the arm til it slides forward a bit relubricate the rear of the Tbar and tap it backwards. The way I did my first Tbar splines was much more brutal,this way,while not gentle,is civillised.I only have a cheap plumbers torch with a screw on cannister to heat stuff,but try the candle wax and heat,it works on stuck nuts too. When the then arm is off the splines then removing the nuts at the rear crossmember will allow the Tbar to be removed FORWARDS from the crossmember.
I hope this is of some use,but I only have this much detail as I did it the hard way first,save yourself a days work and stress and heat,wax and tap.

[simmitc]

The procedure detailed in the Haynes manual is absolutely correct. If followed step by step, then you will not go wrong. It is correct that the bars become "handed" and should not be swapped over. Use a wire brush to remove any traces of underseal, and as with any metal parts that have been together for many years, liberal use of Plusgas (letting it soak in) will help no end. Heat and careful use of hammer and levers will also be of assistance.

[bmcecosse]

The reason 'most of the posts change the subject' etc is that generally there is no need to remove the T bar. Why do you NEED to remove yours ??

[beero]

I had difficulty removing the first one. It was not until I dismantled it that I fully understood how it was all put together and the second one was then easy(er) Good luck.

[DavidJay]

Thank you all for your comments particularly chrisryder and oddbod who went into great detail. The reason that I want to remove my Tbar is that I am having to replace the front chassis leg. I will have a go later today and see how I get on.

Thank you

[bmcecosse]

If you are only doing a front half-leg, the bar can be left in place. If doing the complete leg - well yes - it will be better out of the way! Soak it all in good release oil before you start. And take great care to release the stored energy before you undo anything too critical!

[DavidJay]

The torsion bar now successfully removed. It is the whole chassis leg I am replacing, so it had to come off. Once I realised that you needed to relax the tension still built up when the suspension was at full droop, it was easy. It might sound dumb but I had no experience of torsion bars and didn't really understand how they work, but now I am an expert!! anyone want any advice

[oddbod]

Well done, I "knew" about the stored energy in the Tbar,but only understood it when a bottle jack appeared on the other side of the car as if Teleported. Fortunately my car had been lowered,and almost all the tension was off before it Fired the jack. Isn't it a great feeling when you understand something so well that tackling it a second time becomes a pleasure?