Break Bind

Post by **Sandun** » Mon Apr 09, 2012 6:58 am

when I went home by my MM car ,not a Problem about Break Binding of wheels , But after 24Km run, I feel Break Bind in 3 wheels - however I finished my journey - why break bind ? what I do for it ? I checked break oil , oil enough not a problem of oil

Post by **David53** » Mon Apr 09, 2012 7:24 am

Usually wheel cylinders getting stuck. Pop the drums and have a look

Post by **Sandun** » Mon Apr 09, 2012 8:30 am

How to remove air that inside of the break system ?

Post by **MarkyB** » Mon Apr 09, 2012 8:50 am

Brake binding isn't normally caused by air in the system.
How are you checking what brakes are binding?
If thy are all equally warm after a run it my be that the cold brake isn't working at all due to stuck cylinders.

Post by **Sandun** » Mon Apr 09, 2012 9:00 am

It is not a answer to the my Problem

Post by **Dean** » Mon Apr 09, 2012 9:17 am

It could be a sticking cylinder. Perhaps(as I don't know which one is sticking) when you release your handbrake, one of the rear brakes shoes isn't coming fully away from the drum. You need to jack each wheel up and find out which one is tight.

Post by **Sandun** » Mon Apr 09, 2012 11:36 am

I wont to know ,How to remove air from the all break system ? How to do it using BLEED NIPPLES

Post by **madmoggy** » Mon Apr 09, 2012 12:06 pm

A word of warning,messing around with brakes when you have no idea is not a wise thing to do.
If you are not happy with the answers you get on this forum (and there is a lot of knowledge on here)then please for your safety and the safety of others take your moggy to a mechanic.
All the best.

Post by **Dean** » Mon Apr 09, 2012 12:12 pm

Two ways.

1) Buy a self bleed kit. Push pipe onto nipple, undo nipple by 1/4 of a turn push pedal to floor, release pedal, checkpipe for air. If air bubbles present, keep pressing until clear, then tighten nipple. Do passenger front first, then drivers front, then passenger rear and finally drivers rear. Carefully top up master cylinder as you can put air in the system refilling, do not pump pedal with cap off master cylinder. You may need to top up as you go along, depending how much fluid you use up.

2) use a normal pipe and ask a friend to pump the pedal, release nipple when pushing pedal down, tighten nipple when lifting pedal.

3) the way I've never mastered is the gravity version.

Post by **dalebrignall** » Mon Apr 09, 2012 2:34 pm

dont mess about with brakes if you are not sure what you are doing it sounds like you need new wheel cylinders ,go to a mechanic and get it sorted propally .

Post by **bmcecosse** » Mon Apr 09, 2012 5:10 pm

Sandun - as others have told you - brake binding is NOT caused by air in the system. It would be caused by the cylinders sticking - or perhaps the master cylinder not returning home. How do you KNOW the brakes are binding? Do the wheels feel especially hot (almost too hot to touch) after a run ? Bleeding the brakes is well documented in the Workshop Manual - which I'm sure you have !

Post by **Sandun** » Tue Apr 10, 2012 4:59 am

"" Do the wheels feel especially hot (almost too hot to touch) after a run ? "" yes my Friend 3 wheels had Hot and tight - when I release the BLEED NIPPLES the wheels release again - what I do for it ?

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Apr 10, 2012 5:15 am

Well - possibly one problem is that the one wheel that was cold has seized cylinder(s) and is not doing anything! However, overall 'brake binding' does suggest a problem with the master cylinder not releasing pressure when you take your foot off the pedal. Please check - is there a little 'free movement' at the pedal - feel with your hand. Do you have a brake servo fitted ?

Post by **Sandun** » Tue Apr 10, 2012 5:30 am

yes there is a little 'free movement' at the pedal - feel with my hand. NO not have a brake servo fitted - ""do not pump pedal with cap off master cylinder.""Mr. Dean says - why ?

Post by **Dean** » Tue Apr 10, 2012 8:00 am

Just incase the brake fluid comes out. Brake fluid cost money and it'll help the car rust in the chassis leg.

Post by **autolycus** » Tue Apr 10, 2012 8:31 am

What type of brake fluid is in the system?

I am concerned that you refer to "oil". If oil has been used, it could have caused the brake hoses to swell internally, blocking the return of fluid.

Which wheel did not get hot?

Kevin

Post by **Sandun** » Tue Apr 10, 2012 9:17 am

'" Which wheel did not get hot? " it is back ,right side to driver

Post by **autolycus** » Tue Apr 10, 2012 9:55 am

OK, does that brake work properly? Jack up that wheel and try to turn it when someone presses on the brake pedal. Does it become impossible to turn, then easy agin when the pedal is released?

I also asked about the brake fluid in my previous post.

Kevin

Post by **bmcecosse** » Tue Apr 10, 2012 7:56 pm

As above - that suggests the right rear cylinder may be seized up and not working. next check - is there a return spring on the brake pedal movement - if you press the pedal down - does it spring back - including the 'free movement'? the alternative to all this is that you may need a new mastercylinder - which is expensive enough here - goodness know how much in SL... and it's not all that easy to remove the old one and fit the new one. So - we must explore ALL other possibilities before going that route........

Post by **oddbod** » Tue Apr 10, 2012 10:04 pm

Hi Sandun,on which side of your car does the driver sit? In England the Driver sits on the right of the car normally.

Morris Minor Owners Club

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