heavy clutch (1098cc)
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heavy clutch (1098cc)
My saloon clutch gets very heavy - especially in traffic. It was ok tonight starting from cold, but after 100 fast miles coming into London my foot felt bruised after 5 miles of jams. All the components have been replaced - plate, levers, pedal, mountings etc - to no avail. The gearbox was a secnd hand replacement; might the output shaft be bent ? All the engine bottom end was replaced about 3k miles ago. My 1957 948cc also got heavy in traffic (40 years ago) but I never sorted that as traffic was rather lighter then ! Any ideas ? (No it's not a Spridget clutch.) Thanks, John SE London 020 8778 3023.
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Re: heavy clutch (1098cc)
Did you grease all the new bits when you fitted them?
How about the pedal shaft?
Also what return spring do you have fitted? It only needs to return the pedal nothing more, I've changed over heavy duty return springs before now.
How about the pedal shaft?
Also what return spring do you have fitted? It only needs to return the pedal nothing more, I've changed over heavy duty return springs before now.
"Once you break something you will see how it was put together"
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Re: heavy clutch (1098cc)
Are you confident that the clutch becomes 'heavier' after time and usage? Only ask because I had a simular concern, turned out that the clutch pedel remained constant, it was me who was finding it ingreasingly difficult! Old age and arthritis creep up on us all, a bit like wear and rust on the minor. I would have a look if the pedal shaft is well greased as markyb has suggested though.
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Re: heavy clutch (1098cc)
Thanks; I also drive a 1964 VW camper which has a lighter and wholly consistent clutch - this definitely gets heavier during a journey to the point where it's hard to operate. I have relubricated all the external linkages several times. Perhaps I need to dismantle and reassemble all the parts outside the bell housing ... The issue is why does it get worse when it heats up ?
Re: heavy clutch (1098cc)
The fork pivot inside the bellhousing is the only moving part that you can't access easily. But if you take off the rubber bungs you should be able to direct a well aimed stream of aerosol lub oil at the pivot. Just don't get it in your eye........



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Re: heavy clutch (1098cc)
check clutch retain spring - and check the pedal, is it freely work fine ? some time the pedal jam or touch somewhere ,
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Re: heavy clutch (1098cc)
So I sprayed chain wax into the bell housing and fitted a lighter spring of the same length and type. Great - nice light pedal that does not get heavier. However the clutch pedal does not return - it needs help with a toe. Are there middling strength springs ? I tried to spray around the brake and clutch pedals but it still binds lightly. Do I have to take out the seats / carpet / soundproofing and remove the gearbox & master cylinder floor panel to get at the shaft ? Anyway thanks for the help so far - it made for a much more pleasant 50 mile run on Sunday. John.[frame]
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Re: heavy clutch (1098cc)
Maybe you can get spray lube oil to the brake/clutch shaft if you just lift the little cover over the master cylinder?



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Re: heavy clutch (1098cc)
I've recently fitted a new return spring from a Minor specialist and it is way to heavy it is about 4 times as stiff as the corroded original I replaced.
Any ideas on where a lighter spring can be sourced.
May try stretching it a bit to lose some of the tension.
Richard
Any ideas on where a lighter spring can be sourced.
May try stretching it a bit to lose some of the tension.
Richard