TRACK ROD ENDS (OR AT LEAST I THINK THATS WHAT THERE CALLED)
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I understand what your all saying the I don't need the ball joint splitter cos that came out really easily, the locking nut has now moved enough the only thing the won't move even a fraction is the old TRE its self I have now tried everything suggested hitting with hammers holding spanners together everything, hopefully a friend who used to be a mechanic is coming round this week to see if he can do it, failing that I am now officially sending out an SOS to anyone living in the wakefield area who can help, cheers Simon.
The TREs are NOT handed ! Don't worry about that. I'm amazed that if you have managed to move the lock-nut away from the TRE - that it won't unscrew now ?? Add more oil to the exposed thread!
Did you manage to pick up a stilson wrench ? If so - use that on the TRE and a decent spanner or mole grips on the track rod if it has no 'flat'. Better still - two stilsons of course!
Did you manage to pick up a stilson wrench ? If so - use that on the TRE and a decent spanner or mole grips on the track rod if it has no 'flat'. Better still - two stilsons of course!



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Hi everyone,
just an update, at last its off I tried everything but in the end just sat for half an hour with my little wickes blow torch and heated it up then it very slowly started to move, after an hour of perseverence it came off, but then I had to get the locking nut off, so replace the torn gaiter rubber, but it wouldn't budge, so I called for help in the form of my grandma's nephew who used to be a mechanic and after another hour it came off and we could see why it took so long. There was hardly any thread on the locking nut and the thread on the tie rod arm was flat I was really greatful to my grans nephew but did feel a little guilty him sitting on my cold garage floor trying to get the nut off at 71 years old and considering hes having a knee replaced next week he did a great job for me just goes to show the oldies can show us whipper snappers something no accounting for knowledge, thanks to everyone who helped much appreciated sure I'll need your help again and I have got other track rod end to do yet ha ha. Cheers Simon.
just an update, at last its off I tried everything but in the end just sat for half an hour with my little wickes blow torch and heated it up then it very slowly started to move, after an hour of perseverence it came off, but then I had to get the locking nut off, so replace the torn gaiter rubber, but it wouldn't budge, so I called for help in the form of my grandma's nephew who used to be a mechanic and after another hour it came off and we could see why it took so long. There was hardly any thread on the locking nut and the thread on the tie rod arm was flat I was really greatful to my grans nephew but did feel a little guilty him sitting on my cold garage floor trying to get the nut off at 71 years old and considering hes having a knee replaced next week he did a great job for me just goes to show the oldies can show us whipper snappers something no accounting for knowledge, thanks to everyone who helped much appreciated sure I'll need your help again and I have got other track rod end to do yet ha ha. Cheers Simon.
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Re: TRACK ROD ENDS (OR AT LEAST I THINK THATS WHAT THERE CALLED)
Simon,
When you have replaced the steering rack rubber gators leave the small jubilee clip / tie-wrap loose before you have it tracked.
Otherwise the garage will turn the steering rack bar with the flats until the disired toe in is achieved which then twists the gator splitting it most likely the cause of many split gators all due to having the tracking done!
Tighten the clip up after and check oil no more than 10 pumps of hypoid 90 using the service grease gun filled with oil.
Removing track rod ends is a common problem, I find leaving the nut loose on the track rod to steering arm but not removing it then backing the nut off the track rod to rack bar then if penetrating oil does not work using a small plumbers blowtorch usually does the trick.
Hope this helps...
When you have replaced the steering rack rubber gators leave the small jubilee clip / tie-wrap loose before you have it tracked.
Otherwise the garage will turn the steering rack bar with the flats until the disired toe in is achieved which then twists the gator splitting it most likely the cause of many split gators all due to having the tracking done!
Tighten the clip up after and check oil no more than 10 pumps of hypoid 90 using the service grease gun filled with oil.
Removing track rod ends is a common problem, I find leaving the nut loose on the track rod to steering arm but not removing it then backing the nut off the track rod to rack bar then if penetrating oil does not work using a small plumbers blowtorch usually does the trick.
Hope this helps...
Sidevalve upper limits
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Re: TRACK ROD ENDS (OR AT LEAST I THINK THATS WHAT THERE CALLED)
Thanks for your advice but I posted this thread nearly 3 years ago, but thanks anyway.
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Re: TRACK ROD ENDS (OR AT LEAST I THINK THATS WHAT THERE CALLED)
I thought someone might find it usefull searching trackrods 

Sidevalve upper limits
Re: TRACK ROD ENDS (OR AT LEAST I THINK THATS WHAT THERE CALLED)
Better with grease than oil - which just runs down into the gaiters and leaves the rack dry......


