Engine running problems

[bmcecosse]

Surprised it 'broke' the needle ! Never heard of that. Jets are all the same at 100 thou. Virtually ALL B series needles are the same in the idle section - so 'idling' is no guide to the running mixture. Plug check will tell you - if white = too weak, and you need to do something about it sharpish! Since it's single carb you can simply file a flat down the side of the needle to richen up the mixture.

[53buick]

So how do I set the idle mixture then?
I assumed I turned the mixture screw in until the revs peaked, went past to feel it drop, go back to feel it drop and then viola! job done.
This just goes up in revs as I screw it in, it doesn't drop.
pushing the piston lifting thingy up makes no difference in the revs.
I will get hold of a colour tune and checkit out that way.
But, a few more things to do first then down for an MOT, that will give it a 2 mile run too..

[bmcecosse]

Have you tried screwing the mixture screw OUTwards? I honestly can't remember - but it's possible that screwing it IN is making the mixture rich.

[53buick]

I am sure that screwing it in pushes the jet upwards which should lean it off but I will check.

[bmcecosse]

You may well be right - it's a while since I worked with an HIF. But it's worth trying!

[53buick]

Hi All,
sorry for the delay in responding, had a few poo months with health and work and family health but here is an update on the Engine.
I got the engine running what I would call really well but after Paula drove it in the summer, it overheated and dumped oil so I was very worried with the status of this engine....

So, after around 10 minutes of running/driving I noticed a drastic reduction in power and the engine sounded rattly.
I started it on the drive to check it again and for some reason I went to the back of the car to see if she was smoky or grey/black smoke but she was clear.
I then touched the tailpipe and burnt my hand..... after 5-10 minutes of running...

I had an idea it may be the Cam possibly so I removed the cam, bought new duplex gear re-timed the engine with the new gear and re-gasketed the sump and the timing cover etc and now she runs alot smoother, quieter and cooler.

I hope to take her out this week to see how she now drives.

note to self, NEVER trust someone elses engine builds without stripping and rebuilding it yourself.. grrr

[bmcecosse]

Interesting - so you think the cam timing was incorrect?

[53buick]

yeah, almost positive but cannot prove anything as I removed the lot and then refitted new but the tailpipe is cooler now after 10 minutes than before.
The test will be a thermometer in the rad and drive it like I stole it! although this time of year with -4degrees outside temperature, it may not show if the problem is still there.
I cannot think why else the exhaust would be getting really hot and a loss of power, it all seems to point to advanced timing.
Would the pistons be very dangerously close to the valve though with a 266 cam?

[bmcecosse]

No worries about piston/valve interference - running v hot is normally a sign of grossly RETARDED ignition timing. Mini owners sometimes report glowing red manifolds.......

[53buick]

Ok, I have a wording issue... lol... Basically I think she was firing as the exhaust valves were opening hence the energy was being transmitted down the exhaust rather than onto the piston hence lack of performance.
I was expecting a really quick motor as everything had been done to this engine so maybe, if I can get chance this week, we should find out how good it really is.
I will let you know.
;)
Spence

[53buick]

Right. a slow update but one never the less...
Took the morris out today for a 29 mile run, it was ok, never overheated at all, ran smooth.
the only issue I have now is, it is not at all quick or even nippy.
torquey but not as I would expect a 1330 engine to be.
in fact, I would say a stock 1275 would ring around me.
and I am leaving a snail trail of oil behind me and wherever I stop.
I have just re-gasketted the sump last week as I thought it could have been that but from todays run, it is not.
So, I think it may be the rear oil seal.... POOOOO......

[bmcecosse]

There is no rear oil seal - if oil is coming out of the jiggle pin hole in the base of the bellhousing, then there is excessive pressure in the crankcase - pushing oil out past the scroll/labyrinth in the tail of the crank. A '1330' has negligible extra power over a 1275. Are the compressions all good? What is the spec of the engine?
Reading back through the thread - You said earlier that during the summer - the engine overheated and threw out all the oil? The rings are probably cooked/lost tension. Bores may be scored. What oil pressure does it make when hot?

[53buick]

the oil seems to be coming from between the sump and the backplate, I have renewed the sump gasket twice now so I can say it is not that.
The engine is a 1330 Austin 1300GT engine with a slightly ported head, BCF2 cam, HIF44 carb re-jetted, performance filter, 3 branch manifold, free flowing exhaust system (38mm diameter), electronic ignition already fitted into a new dizzy (apparently pre-set up for that spec engine) going through a 5 speed box with a final drive of 3.7:1

cheers for any light on this one. its driving me bonkers!

[53buick]

I was not around, it was someone else that told me that it had overheated etc so I took it for red that he was correct but when I looked there was no evidence of this apart from the oil leak. I need to do a compression check tomorrow and see what we are getting.

[bmcecosse]

It can't be a 1300GT engine - that was FWD! And therefore has absolutely NO rear oil seal - even if the crank was changed for an inline version. Comp test will reveal all. Do it with hot engine/all pugs out/throttle held open.

[53buick]

it is the GT engine converted over to RWD going by the casting numbers which, if it has no rear seals at all may be the reason for the leak.... which may give me a big headache...

[bmcecosse]

It would be a MOST unusual conversion - and lack of any rear oil seal is the huge problem. It could be a 1300GT head on a rwd 1275 block.... slightly larger inlet valves.

[53buick]

I bought a pair of MG Midgets with 3 engines and 4 gearboxes a few years back and I sold on nearly everything apart from this one engine which I kept back because of the cam and the rebore etc... I never knew about any rear oil seal issue, I thought any A-Series would work in any configuration.
Is there anything I can do as this is the only engine I have together....

[53buick]

Looking around on some other threads has made me realise, I dont have the breather on the front camchain cover connected to the carb or any other vent system in place so after I have done a compression test I will look to see if I can plum that back in.

[bmcecosse]

So - it is an MG Midget engine? Not a 1300GT ???? And yes - you MUST have the timing case breather connected to the carb intake.....