Thanks in advance Guys!!!
how do you remove the knobs from pull switches?
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Iain Hall
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how do you remove the knobs from pull switches?
As I say in the title how on earth do you remove the knobs from the pull switches on a Morris 1000 circa i958? I can see a little metal button on one side of the switch but it has no slot for a screwdriver and does not seem to move when pressed, I know that there is probably some cute trick to it but I can't work it out at present
Thanks in advance Guys!!!
Thanks in advance Guys!!!
The fun has begun!

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ZetecVan 2.0
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Re: how do you remove the knobs from pull switches?
You should be able to just push that small metal button with something pointy like a paperclip and as you're pushing, gently pull the knob and it should slide off. If the silver button is not moving, give it a quick squirt with WD40.
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mike.perry
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Re: how do you remove the knobs from pull switches?
See photo of switch - Topic 2 speed wipers Push-Pull type switch
[sig]3580[/sig]
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Iain Hall
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Re: how do you remove the knobs from pull switches?
Thanks for the advice managed to remove the headlight switch without drama but the release pin on the wiper switch turned out to be rather rusty and it refused to release so I ended up having to destroy the Bakelite knob
not too concerned though as I don't think that I will be using the original switches because of my aversion to the prince of darkness (Joe Lucas
)
The fun has begun!

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charlie_morris_minor
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Re: how do you remove the knobs from pull switches?
i think the princess of darkness let the side down when designing the switches... they seem to work for a long time without any problems 
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Iain Hall
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- Location: Queensland Austriala
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Re: how do you remove the knobs from pull switches?
Charley
I owned a Norton ES2 that would never keep its battery charged for all of the thirty years it was in my possession, I also had a Landrover that was afflicted by Lucas electrics and I was forever adjusting the points to keep it going. The problem is not teh switches but the fact that they are expected to cope with quite high currents and that means that after fifty years they are pretty well all burnt out where it matters. Modern cars use relays for all high current switching and that means that controls for the headlights ect are all running truly nominal currant. This all means that I will be using the entire wiring loom from my engine donor car and I will probably use the switch mounting holes in the dash for some extra idiot lights, two for indicator tell tales, one for brake fail and one will have an engine start button
I owned a Norton ES2 that would never keep its battery charged for all of the thirty years it was in my possession, I also had a Landrover that was afflicted by Lucas electrics and I was forever adjusting the points to keep it going. The problem is not teh switches but the fact that they are expected to cope with quite high currents and that means that after fifty years they are pretty well all burnt out where it matters. Modern cars use relays for all high current switching and that means that controls for the headlights ect are all running truly nominal currant. This all means that I will be using the entire wiring loom from my engine donor car and I will probably use the switch mounting holes in the dash for some extra idiot lights, two for indicator tell tales, one for brake fail and one will have an engine start button
The fun has begun!
