chassis leg replacement, suspension dismantling
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Re: chassis leg replacement, suspension dismantling
Jack under the lower arm, these bushes are very easily renewed - be SURE to fit poly here.



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Re: chassis leg replacement, suspension dismantling
A bit more progress on this. I ordered a whole bunch of parts including the chassis leg just before Christmas but the chaos with the postal system caused by the cold weather meant that the parts only arrived at the end of last week.
So, rotten steel cut away and upper surface treated with that rust eating gel:

New half leg offered up and aligned accurately with the eye bolt marker:

Next the slightly confusing bit. The panel is a Hadrian panel and for some reason has a different profile at the front. If it were correct, it would have an extra 40mm or so horizontal continuation length forward of the tie bar mount before the taper up to the cross member.
The photo I have of the Earlpart one looks to be correct......but with this one I'm still confused

Anyway after a bit of good healthy swearing and rather than spend another month messing around, I decided to attempt a closing piece for the front and try to maintain the original profile. Using the cardboard template method:






I'm not entirely happy with creating a box around the new leg as its potentially going to create a rust trap. I may just make a smaller closing piece and sacrifice the original profile. Either way, the box sections will get blasted inside with cavity wax so minimising any further chance of rusting inside out.
I'm learning as I go along here but if I can offer advice based on my progress, just ask.
Cheers
So, rotten steel cut away and upper surface treated with that rust eating gel:

New half leg offered up and aligned accurately with the eye bolt marker:

Next the slightly confusing bit. The panel is a Hadrian panel and for some reason has a different profile at the front. If it were correct, it would have an extra 40mm or so horizontal continuation length forward of the tie bar mount before the taper up to the cross member.
The photo I have of the Earlpart one looks to be correct......but with this one I'm still confused

Anyway after a bit of good healthy swearing and rather than spend another month messing around, I decided to attempt a closing piece for the front and try to maintain the original profile. Using the cardboard template method:






I'm not entirely happy with creating a box around the new leg as its potentially going to create a rust trap. I may just make a smaller closing piece and sacrifice the original profile. Either way, the box sections will get blasted inside with cavity wax so minimising any further chance of rusting inside out.
I'm learning as I go along here but if I can offer advice based on my progress, just ask.
Cheers
Re: chassis leg replacement, suspension dismantling
Are you SURE the chassis leg should sit back like that ? Is the tie-bar mount in exactly the same place as the one on the other side when you measure from the front ?? Hadrian have a v good reputation - so I would expect their panel to be correct.



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Re: chassis leg replacement, suspension dismantling
Hi Dean, I'm still following your progress with avid interest and will begin the attack on my Minor this weekend.I'm not entirely happy with creating a box around the new leg as its potentially going to create a rust trap. I may just make a smaller closing piece and sacrifice the original profile. Either way, the box sections will get blasted inside with cavity wax so minimising any further chance of rusting inside out.
I wonder if the difference between the chassis leg you have and the space for it on the car can be explained by the fact that yours is a Riley 1.5. I know the Riley is based on the Minor but the front end sheet metal is not the same and the original chassis leg may have been that little bit longer. The box you have fabricated looks very tidy, if you seam weld it all the way around there should be no dirt trap. You might put a neat round hole in it with a rubber plug so you can fill it with wax.
I recall an earlier remark you made about the original chassis leg being double thickness. Was that the whole leg or just at the eye-bolt where there should be a second layer? The implication is that the whole thing may have been made stronger to carry the larger engine and deal with the extra power. I would be looking also at the eye-bolt to see if it is different from a regular Minor, perhaps longer to reach through a heavier chassis leg. I think you need to keep a sharp eye for subtle differences that there may be with a Riley.
Darrell
Fussyoldfart in Welland Ontario. 

Re: chassis leg replacement, suspension dismantling
You must make sure both eyebolt and tie-bar mounts are in the correct place. If setting the leg as you have shown makes that so - then yes - box up at the front, but don't overlap making rust traps !



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Re: chassis leg replacement, suspension dismantling
I only just put on the Hadrian half leg (though on the other side) and had no such problem.........it fit almost perfectly on the first try! Sorry to see it's not working for you. Something fishy may be going on.
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Re: chassis leg replacement, suspension dismantling
I've spoken to the supplier today. He is a well respected 1.5 specialist and apparently the later 1.5s were a slightly different shape at the front. The most important measurement ie eye bolt centre to tie bar connection is correct so no worries.
Darrell, the earlier comment about double thickness was a "tongue in cheek" dig at the previous owner who had obviously just encapsulated the original chassis leg with new metal. Similar situation to bodges on Minis where you can find several layers of rotten sill where cover sills are welded one on top of the next. There is a legitimate double thickness plate to strengthen the eye bolt tube.
Keep us up to date with your progress.
Cheers
Darrell, the earlier comment about double thickness was a "tongue in cheek" dig at the previous owner who had obviously just encapsulated the original chassis leg with new metal. Similar situation to bodges on Minis where you can find several layers of rotten sill where cover sills are welded one on top of the next. There is a legitimate double thickness plate to strengthen the eye bolt tube.
Keep us up to date with your progress.

Cheers
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Re: chassis leg replacement, suspension dismantling
Methinks that the measurement from the centre of the eyebolt to the centre of the centre crossmember would be just as important.The most important measurement is eye bolt centre to tie bar connection is correct so no worries.
Talk slow, think fast!
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Re: chassis leg replacement, suspension dismantling
AHA! I was wondering why the inner wings and other body panels looked so different and the lack of engine tie plates, yet many other similar parts! Such as suspension and chassis leg.Dean Moriarty wrote:Hi Darrell
Glad you are interested. Its very much a learning curve for me.
I have to confess that mine is not a Minor. This is its B series cousin, the Riley 1.5.
As far as I'm aware the suspension is identical, (as are many other parts of the car), so jobs done here will equally apply to yours.
I'm happy to post some pictures....
Cheers John - all comments IMHO
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Re: chassis leg replacement, suspension dismantling
Reached a milestone with the car yesterday.
Since I last posted, I discovered that the chassis leg concealed by the cross member was rotten so I had no choice but to whizz it out:



That last picture shows the flanges still in place but in the end I removed everything and took it right back to the floor pan.
My mate created me a new rear half leg, (in 14 gauge so should last a while ). I made a new top section for the front leg and an inner wing to leg repair piece. I then POR15'd the lot, (apart from the flanges which I did in zinc primer) prior to fitting up:

I've drilled a couple of decent size holes in the top section which I can use to access the inside of the new leg and jet with cavity wax. I ve got some rubber bungs to then close them up.
So by yesterday evening we now have one complete chassis leg, all new steel and not a bodged patch in sight.

Today I'll remove all that transit paint from the outside of the leg and get it POR15'd.
Since I last posted, I discovered that the chassis leg concealed by the cross member was rotten so I had no choice but to whizz it out:



That last picture shows the flanges still in place but in the end I removed everything and took it right back to the floor pan.
My mate created me a new rear half leg, (in 14 gauge so should last a while ). I made a new top section for the front leg and an inner wing to leg repair piece. I then POR15'd the lot, (apart from the flanges which I did in zinc primer) prior to fitting up:

I've drilled a couple of decent size holes in the top section which I can use to access the inside of the new leg and jet with cavity wax. I ve got some rubber bungs to then close them up.
So by yesterday evening we now have one complete chassis leg, all new steel and not a bodged patch in sight.


Today I'll remove all that transit paint from the outside of the leg and get it POR15'd.
Re: chassis leg replacement, suspension dismantling
So good to see someone doing a proper job!
Looks great and will last....Well done!
Looks great and will last....Well done!
1956 Morris Minor Series II
1959 MGA 1600 Roadster
1966 Jaguar Mk2 3.8 MOD
1959 MGA 1600 Roadster
1966 Jaguar Mk2 3.8 MOD
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Re: chassis leg replacement, suspension dismantling
Hope you don't mind me bumping this thread after so long but just wanted to conclude the story.
All the chassis work and suspension rebuild now complete.
Also completely rebuilt the brakes and clutch system.
Car passed its MOT last month with no advisories.
Really happy with the results.
Thanks for all the advice given on the forum

All the chassis work and suspension rebuild now complete.
Also completely rebuilt the brakes and clutch system.
Car passed its MOT last month with no advisories.
Really happy with the results.
Thanks for all the advice given on the forum
