hi there, i am 16 and have recently inherited a 1961 morris minor 1000 and am new to forums in general, i have managed to get her started, now i am looking to change certain things about the car, i can't find any posts that include both, how to lower the front and back of the car, i was wondering if anyone could help out, and list anything i may need to buy
many thanks
harry
lowering
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chrisryder
- Minor Legend
- Posts: 2217
- Joined: Mon Nov 15, 2010 11:44 pm
- Location: West Midlands UK
- MMOC Member: No
Re: lowering
you can lower the back by fitting lowering locks, spacers, between the spring and the axle. with spacer blocks in there, the U bolts that hold the axle to the springs won't reach, so you need longer U bolts too.
[frame]
[/frame]
(and yes i'm aware my springs are on back to front, this was for mocking up purposes)
To fit them, you need to jack the vehicle up and support the body not the axle. Then you can undo the nuts on the U bolts to release the axle from the springs. You can then jack the axle up, or lift it by hand if you're feeling strong, while you put the blocks in place. Then fit the longer U bolts.
To lower the front you don't need any parts or special kits, it's just a case of adjustment. You can adjust the ride height with the 'vernier plate' (with 5 holes in) at the rear of the torsion bar where it meets the cross member. changing which hole the bolt is in changes the ride height by around 5-6mm per hole. Once you run out of adjusment, you have to move the arm at the front end of the torsion bar around by 1 spline (for about 1.5 inches/38mm) change in ride height, and you can then adjust that back if 38mm is too much, by going back up the holes in the vernier plate at the cross member.
All of this adjustment at the front requires the front suspension to be largely disassembled, to take the load off the torsion bar. You may have done this before, you may not, but either way, don't rush things. Be very carefull and methodical and think about the consequences of your actions before you undo something that pings off and breaks your arm...
Once the suspension is lowered, with the reduced travel you may find yourself regularly hitting the bump stops (assuming they're fitted, which they should be fitted if not). Bump stops can be trimmed down to give you some much needed travel, but do make sure that doing so won't allow the wheels to hit the body, or the axle to hit the exhaust pipe, or for the lower front suspension arm to hit the floor. You must leave enough rubber on the stops to give them a bit of compression, if they're short and stubby they wont compress, and will transmit a lot of force to the body.
With both front and rear, it's a good opportunity while you're there to check all the bushes and things for wear. It's much easier to replace them while you're there than to do it all again!
With both front and rear, it's also a good idea to stiffen up the dampers, either with thicker oil in the standard dampers, or with telescopic shocks. This will not only improve handling, but also mean you clout the bump stops less often!
[frame]
(and yes i'm aware my springs are on back to front, this was for mocking up purposes)
To fit them, you need to jack the vehicle up and support the body not the axle. Then you can undo the nuts on the U bolts to release the axle from the springs. You can then jack the axle up, or lift it by hand if you're feeling strong, while you put the blocks in place. Then fit the longer U bolts.
To lower the front you don't need any parts or special kits, it's just a case of adjustment. You can adjust the ride height with the 'vernier plate' (with 5 holes in) at the rear of the torsion bar where it meets the cross member. changing which hole the bolt is in changes the ride height by around 5-6mm per hole. Once you run out of adjusment, you have to move the arm at the front end of the torsion bar around by 1 spline (for about 1.5 inches/38mm) change in ride height, and you can then adjust that back if 38mm is too much, by going back up the holes in the vernier plate at the cross member.
All of this adjustment at the front requires the front suspension to be largely disassembled, to take the load off the torsion bar. You may have done this before, you may not, but either way, don't rush things. Be very carefull and methodical and think about the consequences of your actions before you undo something that pings off and breaks your arm...
Once the suspension is lowered, with the reduced travel you may find yourself regularly hitting the bump stops (assuming they're fitted, which they should be fitted if not). Bump stops can be trimmed down to give you some much needed travel, but do make sure that doing so won't allow the wheels to hit the body, or the axle to hit the exhaust pipe, or for the lower front suspension arm to hit the floor. You must leave enough rubber on the stops to give them a bit of compression, if they're short and stubby they wont compress, and will transmit a lot of force to the body.
With both front and rear, it's a good opportunity while you're there to check all the bushes and things for wear. It's much easier to replace them while you're there than to do it all again!
With both front and rear, it's also a good idea to stiffen up the dampers, either with thicker oil in the standard dampers, or with telescopic shocks. This will not only improve handling, but also mean you clout the bump stops less often!
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harrygodwin
- Newbie
- Posts: 2
- Joined: Fri Sep 16, 2011 11:51 pm
- MMOC Member: No
Re: lowering
Thank you very much, this is perfect, and very helpful 
Re: lowering
Your priority should be to get the car MOTd and on the road - 'lowering' is rarely wise - far far better to make the suspension work properly - not have it sitting on the bump stops knocking 6 bells out of the inner wings and the rear 'chassis' legs....
