Cracking paint job

Post by **Multiphonikks** » Thu Sep 16, 2004 7:37 am

Hi folks..

While I'm hopeful that Hebe is going to pull through, I did look at a car yesterday in case the worst happens. (Added to the fac that its a traveller and that's what I really want)

The car is mechanically sound, has LPG conversion too, and I can't see anything wrong with the metal (It's got a completely replaced underside, no rust problems except the odd bit of bubbling and a bit of rust by the sill, A post and guttering.

But,
The paint is cracked - the guy who did the work on the car did everything and he says the car has been sat outside since the car was restored seven or eight years ago.

Question is...

If the cracking hasn't yet corroded anything (to the point that it's more than just surface problems) is it worth buying?

Just curious...

Nikki

Post by **rayofleamington** » Thu Sep 16, 2004 9:02 am

is it worth buying?

It all depends on price versus condition and what the wood is like.
My traveller has some cracking on the front roof paint however for the price I paid, I still got a bargain.
If you regularly wax the car then the wax deposits will protect the metal under the cracks and this seriously slows down the rate of corrosion.

Personally I wouldn't have a traveller unless it's going to be garaged anyway (I know some people do and they are happy with that) but it does mean you have to keep the maintenance to a very high standard if you don't want the car to deteriorate quickly.

Post by **brixtonmorris** » Thu Sep 16, 2004 3:32 pm

is it cracking due to the use of 2 pac paint being mixed incorectly.

Post by **Relfy** » Mon Sep 20, 2004 8:35 pm

Talking of paint - whats this people talk about - 2 pack vs cellulose? Could someone explain what the differences are?

Post by **grant69** » Tue Sep 21, 2004 6:25 am

can you see bare metal under the cracks or whitish/grey stuff(body filler). Sometimes moisture gets into the filler before it's painted and as it dries out the paint peels away and cracks, this normally requires all the body filler to be removed to fix the problem properly

Post by **Cam** » Tue Sep 21, 2004 6:22 pm

2 pack vs cellulose

2 pac is easier to apply but more dangerous as the 'thinners' contains cyanide.

2 pac also looks plastic compared to cellulose.

A lot of people now use 2 pac as it's easier to get a good finish straight from the gun, BUT if you want a REALLY good paint job that looks like it belongs on a classic car then cellulose is the only way to go really (except if it's a REALLY early car then coach paint is better).

Post by **brixtonmorris** » Tue Sep 21, 2004 6:49 pm

2 pac dries from the outside in.
like freezing water in a pond the top is smooth covering whatever is on the surface.

cellulose dries from the inside out carrying the defects of filler, sctarches in the metal to top surface of the dryed paint.

a lacquer is usually put on 2 pac, which is the coat that gets polished.
its faster labour saving, and gives a good finish without too much effort.