Brakes and Clutch

[Mnkyno4]

Hello New boy here
I've a 1968 minor 1000 saloon which has been tucked away in my garage for the past 5 or so years, I need to shift it to anew home where i can finally work on it. I got the engine working , well put a new battery in and cleaned the plugs, and it fired up fine at the weekend. The problem is ...I left the handbrake on and the back brakes appear to have locked. Now I've got the back wheels and one drum off so far with leverage and hammering but now the drum is off my knowledge runs out.... I tried using the engine to free the brakes and discovered the clutcc has gone too. That's not so bad as I can push it once the brakes are free'd

Any help , check list , tips gratefully recieved! Bearing in mind that I know what a spanner is, but that's about it.

Thanks

Phil

[mike.perry]

Remove the rear wheels and support the axle on axle stands.
Release the handbrake and pull the slack inner cable through to the brake drum. If possible detach the brake cable by removing the split pin and cotter pin.
Push the lever in towards the back plate as far as possible and try turning the brake drum.
If this is not successful try tapping around the circumference of the brake drum with a mallet.
Replace the wheel and try turning it
Try towing the car to unlock the wheels

[bmcecosse]

The brakes will need complete dismantling and reconditioning........ The hydraulic cylinders will almost certainly be seized solid, the flexi rubber pipes are probably perished, and the steel (bundy) pipes are probably rusted dangerously........ Good news is - it's all easily replaced and won't cost a fortune either - and then the brakes will be 'new'. So your first step is to read a Workshop Manual - do you have one ?? And a parts list - such as this from Moss http://www.moss-europe.co.uk/Shop/ViewP ... exID=17088

[Mnkyno4]

Thanks for those replies. I've got a Haynes and a workshop book. So you think I'll need to order the lot? WHat about the front brakes will they need sorting too?

[Mnkyno4]

I guess I'll have to drain the brakes fluid first too won't I?

[bmcecosse]

The whole lot - after 5 years standing. Depends at the moment how you intend to move it to the new home....... The only legal way is with 2 wheels off the ground - ie a suspended tow, or a trailer of course. The clutch may come free - best way is to run the engine for 30 minutes or so - and let the heat soak through into the flywheel - then try a tow start in second gear with the clutch being held firmly down. Of course - don't try this until you have working brakes !

[Mnkyno4]

I think the clutch is a gonna, it was on the way out when I drove it last. There's no power getting to the wheels so I'm not sure what the technical term is for that. Slip? or just bust!
I only need to move the car about 100yds so it was going to be a push job anyway, there's a young copper lives accross the street so I'll see if he can give me an escort. It's just up and then down hill again so I kind of need brakes

[kennatt]

if its going on the road even with a push the young copper will want to see insurance mot and tax,because thats what you need to do what you are proposing.Better to get a trailor,even a tow requires the same,unless suspended(I think) without looking up the regs.Just think of the aftermath if it ran out of control and hit another car or Pedestrian,6 months ban at the least plus fine... much more costly than a trailor hire just friendly advice at the end of the day it's up to you good luck