Fixed

[mach2]

right so my distributer cap is knackered, dead and kaput. i tried to change it but couldnt get two of the screws out (its a side entry screw in type) so i put the old one back on and continued to change the points and condensor (probally not the best idea) they went on fine and the gap was set. so it all went back together and started fine, hopped in the car to test it and it couldnt get up the first hill (shallowest gradient ever) also as soon as i pushed the clutch the power just ceased to exsist. any ideas??? Also is changing the distributer cap to a push in top entry a straight swap??? somebody please help.

[simmitc]

Yes, later cap is a straight swap.
Did the car run OK before you changed points etc?
You have set the gap (to what? It should be 15 thou) but have you also set the timing after setting the gap?
Is the vacuum unit connected and working?
Lack of power arises from several areas, so also consider tappet clearances, carb working properly, fuel pump. Unrelated to engine, does the car roll freely when in neutral?
Obviously if dizzy is the only thing you changed and the car was OK before, then we need to concentrate on that area; but just need to clarify other points as well.

[bmcecosse]

What engine ? Does sound like woefully wrong timing.

[mach2]

engine is a 1098 and the gap was set to fifteen thou. i also changed the plugs, dizzy cap, rotor arm and leads( thought might aswell as it was all apart). my grandads coming round in a bit so ill set the timing then. everything was running fine before. we'll see how it goes. thanks people.

[mach2]

thanks guys the timing was out so was the mixture

[mike.perry]

A top entry cap will require the brass connectors on the ends of the HT leads.

[mach2]

yeah i got those ones when i got the dizzy cap. my dad warned me of that just before i left.