Brake bleeding

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dfyates
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Brake bleeding

Post by dfyates »

I really do wonder if this is a new topic!! Renewed recently all brake pipes and cylinders. Despite man-and-wife bleeding and also an automatic thing with a non-return valve, the pedal still has virtually no resistance. Master cylinder seals were replaced also.
Do I really have to resort to pressure bleeding?
bmcecosse
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Re: Brake bleeding

Post by bmcecosse »

No! First step - have you adjusted all the brakes up HARD against the drums? Then - can you pump up pressure in trhe system? If not - perhaps there is a problem with the seals in the master. If you can pump pressure - do that and then release the furthest away nipple briefly - quick open/close movement. pump up pressure again and repeat a couple of times. then move to the next nipple etc etc until you get a good solid pedal. Then release the brakes off the drums - so they are 'just' rubbing and all should be well. :)
Last edited by bmcecosse on Fri May 13, 2011 6:23 pm, edited 1 time in total.
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MarkyB
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Re: Brake bleeding

Post by MarkyB »

Seconded, also is there still air coming out of all the cylinders?
If there is get a new master cylinder.

"Once you break something you will see how it was put together"
dfyates
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Re: Brake bleeding

Post by dfyates »

bmcecosse wrote:No! First step - have you adjusted all the brakes up HARD against the drums? Then - can you pump up pressure in trhe system? If not - perhaps there is a problem with the seals in the master. If you can pump pressure - do that and then release the furthest away nipple briefly - quick open/close movement. pump up pressure again and repeat a couple of times. then move to the next nipple etc etc until you get a good solid pedal. Then release the brakes off the drums - so they are 'just' rubbing and all should be well. :)
Yes, that's what I meant by bleeding the brakes, done that.....
dfyates
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Re: Brake bleeding

Post by dfyates »

MarkyB wrote:Seconded, also is there still air coming out of all the cylinders?
If there is get a new master cylinder.
Cylinder has been replaced as stated. No air exiting from bleed screws.
chickenjohn
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Re: Brake bleeding

Post by chickenjohn »

Make sure all brake pipe unions are tight as well. if you've recently replaced part of the brake pipes, check for tightness.
Cheers John - all comments IMHO
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Neil MG
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Re: Brake bleeding

Post by Neil MG »

You don't have disc brakes do you? If so the bleed nipples must be at the top otherwise you cannot bleed the system.

The non return valve bleeders can often fail to bleed properly if air is drawn up the thread of the nipple. Recheck that the pads are tight, they need to be able to move freely in their slides or they can stick and appear tight (locking the drum) when in fact they still allow the cylinder to move. Go around again after pumping up the pedal and tighten them all as tight as you can. Then bleed the brakes again with an assistant. You possibly just need to put more fluid through.
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xpress
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Re: Brake bleeding

Post by xpress »

Leave the top off the cap and wedge brake pedal with something overnight. Don't over tighten nipplest just nip them up no more then check resistance when putting load on them. Bleed all round day 2 with one way valve. Put another 500 ml through and report back. Don't reuse old fluid! Good luck!

Rob_Jennings
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Re: Brake bleeding

Post by Rob_Jennings »

get one of these easy bleed rubber tube things

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/SOLO-BRAKE-CLUTCH ... 2ea57e4fdc

simply pop over the brake bleed nipple, loosen off, pump the pedal a few times (quick down slow up), tighten up and work your way round the car.

best couple of quid I ever spent, always worked well for me even when the garage had trouble getting air out of the system. I'll never go back to working in pairs and the up-down method !!
Rob

Cars: Lizzy 1970 Morris Minor Traveller and Noah 1969 Morris Mini Traveller
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