not starting, help please SOLVED

[sevrien]

Hello,

A few weeks ago, I was driving around when my engine just stopped and wouldn't start again.
After towing my car back home, I started to look for the problem.
A few possibilities were there:

Blocked fuel filter - I replaced it with a new one
Blocked carburator - I cleaned it, replaced every washer, gasket and the jet
Broken ignition coil - replaced it
Bad contact points - replaced it
bad condenser - replaced it
bad leads - checked them all, all is OK

Anyone who can help me? I'm out of options.

Greetings
Sevrien

[alainmoran]

When you say 'just stopped' ... can you describe what happened?

Similarly can you describe what happens when you try starting it? ... does it turn over?

[sevrien]

The engine just stopped, like I'd turn the the key off.
The starter turns the engine around but thats all that happens.

btw it's a '51 MM

[alainmoran]

Switching straight-off is most often electrical.

If you pull a spark-plug are you getting a healthy spark?

If you are getting a good spark, then have you checked that the plug-leads are connected in the correct order?

If you are not getting a good spark, take the dizzy-cap off and turn the engine over using the handle (or rock it back and forth while in gear) until the points-gap opens. Now take a volt-meter to the gap and check you have power.

[bmcecosse]

It's 'never' the coil.......
Is the fuelpump working - is there fuel at the carb? Otherwise as has been suggested - is there power to the coil, and if so - is there a spark at the points - and at the plugs?

[sevrien]

I'm getting small sparks when opening the contact point in closed position with a small screwdriver, so, there is power to the dizzy. fuel is no problem, I guess, it runs freely to the floater bowl and since the whole carb has been overhauled I don't think the problem is in that area

What I can try, is to replace the rotor and the distributer cap, but that's the last thing I could think about

[mike.perry]

If a Minor stops then it is either a fuel problem or a spark problem and before you go throwing bits away you need to decide which it is.
Simple checks, undo a spark plug and hold it against a cylinder head stud with a pair of insulating pliers. Ignition on and turn the engine over on the starter solenoid button. If you get a spark then the ignition is probably ok, if not then follow previous instructions.
Fuel check. Is the fuel pump ticking? If not then probably fuel pump fault, if ticking furiously then probably out of petrol. Disconnect cable from terminal on fuel pump and remove fuel pipe from carb. Ign.on and briefly touch terminal with cable, fuel should spurt out of the pipe.
Must try typing faster, your post has beaten me.
Check the carbon contact in the top of the dizzy cap, it should push in and spring out

[bmcecosse]

Try a new condenser.

[LouiseM]

Also worth checking the low tension lead in the distributor cap as the braided covering may be worn and exposing the wire, or the wire might be damaged.[frame][/frame]

[bmcecosse]

Wouldn't expect to get any sparking if it had failed/shorted Louise...... - but for intermittent stumbling etc - yes - it IS worth renewing on a regular schedule.

[LouiseM]

When mine failed it was sparking from the exposed wire on turnover so thought it was worth mentioning as my car also 'stopped dead'.

[sevrien]

It's a '51 sidevalve, so no low tension lead to be found.
The condensor is replaced allready.
I'm not getting any spark so I guess it can only be the contacts in the dizzy cap or the rotor since I got a shock from the HT lead going into the dizzy so at least there's current untill the dizzy.

[bmcecosse]

Oh well indeed - getting a shock is a good sign! So - rotor arm or dizzy cap - or fuel supply problem.

[Biggles1957]

I had a really weird experience like this a while ago in an MG Midget I had - resulting in an embarrassing tow home! After much fiddling I finally tracked it down to a conductive rotor arm would you believe! When it got hot, it actually conducted and I only got very weak if any sparks at the plugs. I was told that some rotor arms breakdown between the rivet that holds the brass bit on top. Sure enough, new rotor arm and it worked perfectly - just a thought and a cheap fix if that's the problem but it took a long time to trace!

[mike.perry]

The condenser is soldered onto the baseplate so you have to unsolder it to replace it, or change the baseplate.
Check the points gap after you have tightened the clamp screws as it can close up.

[sevrien]

It's solved.

In the end it was a worn out rotor.
Thanks for the help

[bmcecosse]

Well done -and thanks for coming back with the result. Told you it wasn't the coil - it 'never' is........

[mike.perry]

[frame][/frame]
It was this time. This coil blew apart on my Traveller

[bmcecosse]

[sevrien]

Not again, grr


Well she ran perfectly, better than before.

But halfway the last run she started to stutter, graduatly harder and harder, untill she stalled and refused to restart.
Theres current till the dizzy, opening the contact point gives small sparks.
Last time it was a bad rotor wich I replaced and now is practically brand new, so I doubt this could be the cause.

Any suggestions?
In the mean time I'll keep on searching