Wheel Alignment Specs

Post by **fweddy** » Sun Aug 15, 2004 10:54 pm

My ute is about ready for the road

Am taking it in tomorrow for the exhaust and alignment and hopefully a valuation.

The chaps doing the alignment want to know the specs for this. If you can help I'd appreciate it

I have a Haynes manual so if its in there I'm ok - but am not able to check now and since you guys are usually in bed when I'm here I thought I'd better ask now so I have the info when I head out in the morning (when you folk are heading to bed).

Post by **Cam** » Sun Aug 15, 2004 11:04 pm

According to my BMC driver's handbook. It should toe-in by 3/32" (2.4mm)

Post by **Chris Morley** » Mon Aug 16, 2004 12:56 am

Fweddy, have a look at the sixth post in 'useful tips' (front wheel camber on a 68 saloon).

Post by **fweddy** » Mon Aug 16, 2004 10:32 am

Thanks Chris

I've managed to look at the Haynes Owners workshop manual and that has all the info, as does my Morris Minor Motor Manual and my 6- and 8-cwt Vehicles Driver's Handbook.

Thanks

Post by **fweddy** » Sun Aug 22, 2004 10:30 am

Well things didn't go the best for the alignment - I have to relook at the top of my trunnions/kingpins/swivelpins (depends who you talk to and which manual you read). Too much slop!

I now have my LH one redone nicely thanks to donor vehicle (replaced the top knuckle) I have a few different top knuckles for the RH side but some are also too worn. But some others are too tight. They start on ok then get tight and then loosen then tight then loosen every ¼ turn after putting them on and off a bit they screw on rather nicely but only to about half way. I read in the haynes manual that it was an option to have the thread cut down and smaller threaded tops put on - is it possible that this is what these are and if I get them done slightly larger (or the pin smaller) they will be screwing on ok? or what's up? Any ideas?

Post by **fweddy** » Mon Aug 23, 2004 2:22 am

I've been to try and find a dienut to trim my thread down a little but we can't determine what the original thread was. Does any one know what the original thread is for the top of the kingpin? Then if I get an adjustable dienut I can just trim it down till the smaller top knuckle I have fits nicely, then I'll be able to go for my re-registration test, then be back on the road!

Post by **fweddy** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 2:12 am

ok - the thread is NO standard thread - just a BMC one. So I need the special BMC die nut (part No. 18G305A). Finally found who owned one but the guy died and noone knows where it went.

I think I have found a temp way around it to at least get on the road in the mean time.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 8:58 am

I think I have found a temp way around it to at least get on the road in the mean time.

you nicked the parts of your dad's car?

Post by **57traveller** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 11:50 am

If you can get that undersize (0.015") die then keep hold of it they are as rare as hens teeth. However will be either left or right hand and marked accordingly. The undersize trunnions are still around but not the corresponding die.

Post by **Kevin** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 1:16 pm

The undersize trunnions are still around but not the corresponding die.

I wonder if Bull Motif have them as they still supply reconditioned swivel pins and trunnions.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 1:58 pm

they still supply reconditioned swivel pins and trunnions

As far as I know - they use the standard thread size... I could be wrong on that.

Post by **57traveller** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 3:30 pm

I think Ray is correct and they are standard size. Built up with weld and machined. But I would have thought whoever cuts the thread must know its size and profile and should be able to cut to 0".015 undersize. That's assuming it's cut on a machine with a tool ground to the correct profile.

Post by **57traveller** » Tue Aug 24, 2004 3:34 pm

Have you thought of trying a bit of grinding paste to ease the tight threads fweddy? Just screw the trunnion over the tight bits a few times with paste applied until it frees up a bit.

Post by **fweddy** » Wed Aug 25, 2004 2:12 am

you nicked the parts of your dad's car?

Ahha - His car's WoF (MOT) has just expired and it needs work before getting another and he suggested that but I didn't go that way as I would have ment pulling the whole thing to bits and refitting, bleeding brakes etc etc.

If you can get that undersize (0.015") die then keep hold of it they are as rare as hens teeth.

Yeah I found that out!!

they still supply reconditioned swivel pins and trunnions
As far as I know - they use the standard thread size

Yeah I can get replacement parts with the std thread - but its $135.00 (£45) for just one top knuckle - well that's from one chap renown for his expense. I can get the same from another chap for $50.

Have you thought of trying a bit of grinding paste to ease the tight threads fweddy?

Yes I did think of that one (I was thinking of a way of sanding it down and saw my cutting compound - now that would take ages!) I still might give the grinding paste a go - will need to get some tho. I did try taking the edge of the thread off the trunnion top and inside the undersize knuckle but it seems to be in the tread itself.

I now have my ute booked for Friday morning at the testing station - all going well I should be able to drive it on the road (legally) after then. Still has some things to finish off though - door cards, numberplate light lense, cut and polish etc etc

Post by **rayofleamington** » Wed Aug 25, 2004 10:02 am

refitting, bleeding brakes etc etc.

Actually it is probably not to much longerif you leave the brakes on the car - it saves the hassle of messing with the brake hydraulics. You just have to undo the wheelbearing nut, pull the hub off, then 4 bolts to remove the backplate.
Anyway - seems like you are sorted now.

£45 for a top trunnion is rather steep

! We can get the complete upright with both trunnions for not far off that price.