trapped air
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trapped air
Any tips on removing air lock from heater would be gratefully received, the system was filled from scratch and the heater was dry. Symptoms-----cold air.
Remove heater pipes from bulkhead and fill heater from there. Then when the rest of the system is full run with the rad cap off. You can also bleed air from the heater control valve by loosening the connection to the head.....
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i bled my system by filling the entire system through the hose going from the block to the heater, i took it off the block and put the water in the hose. it went through the heater down into the radiator, through the radiator and into the block and then filled the block and leaked out the heater fitting on the block. then it was a case of very very quickly lower the hose down onto the fitting. seemed to work alright, i havnt had problems.

Fuel Injected Datsun a15 engine, 5 speed 60 series datsun gearbox
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I have done exactly the same when filling the system from 'dry'. Mind you, I did check that the heater matrix was not blocked first! I would try the above first and if no result then check the heater matrix by connecting a garden hose to one pipe and see what comes out of the other (if anything). Also, your heater tap on the back of the engine might be faulty/blocked.morrisman1 wrote:i bled my system by filling the entire system through the hose going from the block to the heater, i took it off the block and put the water in the hose. it went through the heater down into the radiator, through the radiator and into the block and then filled the block and leaked out the heater fitting on the block. then it was a case of very very quickly lower the hose down onto the fitting. seemed to work alright, i havnt had problems.
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A similar method as already mentioned is with the engine running just take of one of the heater pipes and reconnect as soon as water appears which is normally straight away this normally burps the system.
Cheers
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
Herts Branch Member
Moderator MMOC 44706
Kevin
Lovejoy 1968 Smoke Grey Traveller (gone to a new home after13 years)
Herts Branch Member
Moderator MMOC 44706
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I've always done this to bleed the heater - the water pump at speed should provide enough flow to flush air out fo the heater. beware though if the heater is totally empty as all that air will end up 'somewhere' in the cooling system.When you have carried out those instructions take the car for a run. The extra speed of the water pump should push any remaining air out of the system
If in doubt, fill the heater with the garden hose on one pipe - the excess water comes out the open pipe connection.
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Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block

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Like Kevin says, but it has to be the heater outlet hose you take off. I take the heater hose off the top end of the bent copper pipe, open the heater control valve, start the engine, rev it until coolant starts to spurt out of the hose, then stick the hose back onto the pipe. A bit messy but it definitely works. You'll have to top the radiator up afterwards.


Alex Holden - http://www.alexholden.net/
If it doesn't work, you're not hitting it with a big enough hammer.
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Re: trapped air
i've never seemed to have had any trouble bleeding the system either, i figure it's not a fussy cooling circuit like some modern cars and the bypass hose from the rad allows anything to burp out. running fluid through the heater is a good idea tho.
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Re: trapped air
I have no problems getting rid of my trapped wind 

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Re: trapped air
as for the 3 years gap between posting, it's been a long time, i just had to find the right words! 
