realigning the doors

[PatLazell]

HELP!!! I have just replaced my old and frankly tired door draught excluder for a new lot and surprise surprise the door does not shut (unless you slam it or push it with all your might, rather like shoving an elephant in your wardrobe and shutting the door!!) As the door had been set with the old stuff, I now need to reset the doors, so any hints before I set about her with the crowbar and hacksaw for the job
thanks

[Kevin]

Dont readjust the door you need to adjust the lip the seal fits to, I am sure Willie will be along shortly to explain it in more detail.

[les]

Maybe a bit late now, but you might have been better finding some good used seals, the new ones don't seem to fit properly, you shouldn't have to bend anything.

[Willie]

The important thing is to adjust the hinges so that the door is flush with the body when fully closed. If this is achieved but the doors will not now close because of the new draught excluder whereas they did close before it was fitted then,obviously, the new rubber needs to bed in. The simplest thing to do is to slacken off the door latch on the B pillar and hope that you can set it further in as the rubber settles. If this is not an option then it is worth checking for tight spots between the door and the mounting flange on to which the rubber excluder fits. Trap a piece of card between the door and the rubber and, with the door fully closed,
try to move the card around the door circumference. Usually you will find areas where it is too loose and areas where it is too tight. Given that the door itself is correctly aligned with the exterior of the car the only cure is to adjust (bend) the flange accordingly. I found that a good pair
of Mole grips was the best tool for this.

[PatLazell]

Thanks for your help, I will have a twiddle and let you know the results.

[alanworland]

I got my door seals from ESM and found, just like you that they were far too tight. I mentioned this to ESM and discovered that they did a 'softer' rubber which although I still needed to have a re-setting of it's fixing flange was a lot better. I could get the doors shut more like the originals, but without the missing bits and flappy sections!

[swithland]

Im having exactly the same problems. Before the draught excluders were fitted, the doors fitted perfectly. Once fitted, I had to slam the door like crazy. Even three months on, the doors stand proud by about 6mm. Not very pleasing to the eye !!

Ive had to replace the carpets today due to a broken oil pressure pipe that pumped 4 litres of oil onto the carpets and this time im going with black carpets instead of the red ( wont show the muck so badly !! ) and im also changiong the draught excluders to black to match. So im going to give the mole grips trick a go to bend the flange inwards a little.

Problem I can see will be the thick areas of flange where the convertible reinforcement sections are spot welded in and also where the flange joins the sill edge at the front and back. Those are some chunky sections and im not sure molers are going to do it.

I did the card trick to see where the tightest areas are, and they seem to be everywhere, but especially at the back and front of the sills where they join the vertical door post flanges.

Charles

[swithland]

Still having trouble with my doors. The rubbers dont seem to have settled in and its getting a little embarrasing when half the street turns around to see where the noise is coming from !! Any last suggestions before I go nuts !!

[aupickup]

seee steve at esm he sells the smaller section rubber draught excluder which is more like the size of the original seals

the esm spares shop does not sell them

[mike.perry]

I have the opposite problem, daylight between the quarterlights and the door seal.

[swithland]

I have the opposite problem, daylight between the quarterlights and the door seal.

I managed to sort that problem by giving the upper door frame good shoving as there is quite a lot of adjustment possible on the top half of the frame, but i did that when the window was wound down !!

[swithland]

seee steve at esm he sells the smaller section rubber draught excluder which is more like the size of the original seals

the esm spares shop does not sell them

Thanks for that tip, i will give him a bell on Monday ;-)

[aupickup]

u need to phone the workshop

[MGs]

Anyone got a picture of what the door/sill flange should look like. Judging by the previous BMC models I have owned, it should be a spine shaped flange running all the way round the door gap and across the sill?
Judging by the not too good repairs made to the sill area of my car, there would be no way of fitting the door seal along the bottom although one runs round the door frame[frame][/frame]

[aupickup]

minors never had a dooir seal on the sill cover
it has 2 on the doors

[rcharman]

Hi from Australia

Here is a picture of the lower door seals.[frame][/frame]

[swithland]

Hi from Australia

Here is a picture of the lower door seals.[frame][/frame]

I was thinking about these seals yesterday. I fitted new seals some time ago and wonder if they may the reason im having so much trouble in closing my doors as they press up tightly against the kick panel over the Sills. Will take one side off and see if there is any improvement ;-)

[MGs]

Thanks, that makes things easier. Still a lot of work to get them looking like yours

[ASL642]

None of the seals seem to be the same thickness as the originals - I think this is why we have so much trouble with the doors/boots shutting

[rcharman]

Hi from Australia

Here is a more detailed picture of the lower door seals. The seals are suppose to fit tight as they prevent air and water entering at the bottom of the door and getting into the cars interior.
[frame][/frame]
Hope it helps

Rod