Brake Flaring Tool

[xpress]

profile view of the 2nd op, listed in instructions as "female flare", according to others and bmc, a "double flare" [frame][/frame]

[xpress]

this type of flare is listed in the instructions as "double flare" which is, according to them, a female flare (a single flare with the second op, then with the mandrel pushed down into it again afterwards.[frame][/frame]

[xpress]

picture of the laser tool used to make these flares. was quick and easy. however, you have to follow the instructions and think carefully about them. [frame][/frame]

[MarkyB]

How much are the tool, the pipe and the fittings costing?
It seems to me that buying ready made pipes may turn out to be a "screaming bargain" unless you have a lot of cars to do or need custom pipes.

[xpress]

the names for each flare seem to vary but i guess it's best to copy whatever comes off the vehicle and take a look at the other ends.

i will probably need the tool again so went for it. lol and depends if you want to waste your time doing them yourself!

the laser is about 40 pounds
25ft of kunifer was 12 pounds less shipping
the unions are around 50p each less packing and shipping

can get them made up but then they won't be custom fit, normally a bit more on there than needed, then the flares might not be the right type depending on what's coming off there.

would have cost less than this to have three front pipes made up (about 45 plus shipping), but then i think i will need the tool again and it can always lend a hand for someone else if they need it.

[taupe]

Xpress

Dont take this the wrong way but I think you need a little more practice before using those flares on your car.

You should be able to achieve neat and well formed flares without ridges in the tube and without the distorted ends.

Im sure you will get it with a little more practice

[MarkyB]

I'm not against DIY by any means but sometimes you have to be pragmatic, a set of ready made pipes is around £24.50.
How many 50p unions will you need?
There are plenty of things you will take more care/do a better job than the professionals, I don't think this is one of them.

[xpress]

When these are spot on, then they can go on. The ridges in tube are from the clamp on the tool and in real life are not as bad as you might think. Needs clamping force when turning the mandrel into the top. May try some tin foil to ease this or rubber.

24.50 will not get you kunifer pipes, maybe copper.

Kit recommends not to over flare.

Single flares are fine to do, the 2nd op was done exactly as written in the instructions, but I might do this a few more times to get it spot on. It might need more exposed pipe than it says bmc how much exposed pipe do you use? And less pressure from mandrel until resistance is felt. How many quarter turns are needed for the 2nd op bmc?

The first tool I used was more messy than this one. Wouldn't use it.

You need a flare. It will crush flat and seal that's what it does. Depending on what it's going into.

Taupe do you flare your own?

[bmcecosse]

These flares are terrible - don't put them anywhere near a car! The 1st Op should be made with the special tool - NOT the mandrel. It is then converted to a double flare using the mandrel....... Try it!!

[xpress]

What?! Bmc if you are right that means the instructions are basically rubbish!

PS there are no unions on this pipe so it can't go on a car!

Now bmc how many mm of pipe protruding from the top surface do you set with the first op then how many mm protruding from the top with the 2nd op?

And you push the round thing in the pipe first?

Doesn't say so in the instructions!

[autolycus]

I think a lot of the problem is with the terminology. In his 5.40 p.m. post, xpress showed three types of flare in ASCII art:

\ / = Female Flare

This is never used in car brakes

( ) = Male Flare

This is the convex flare, extensively used, and produced in one stage, using the Op 1 punch

(\ /) = Double Flare

This is a concave flare, and is produced by using the Op 2 punch after using the Op 1 one. These are also a common, standard flare on British cars.

I'll do a couple with a proper flaring tool and take some photos.

As others have said, I wouldn't let the chewed up, off-centre, mangled ones anywhere near a car. With proper split dies, you may get a slight mark on the pipe if the gaps between the halves of the die aren't equal, but that's all. And (sorry to have found a third point of disagreement with Roy), I think you can do at least as good a job with a junior hacksaw as a rotary pipe cutter, since in either case you should remove external and internal burrs before starting flaring.

Kevin

[xpress]

they were my first few flares, i haven't reached double figures yet but i think i have cracked it now!

bmc is a genius! followed his advice ..



see pics ..[frame][/frame]

[xpress]

[frame][/frame]

[bmcecosse]

With the hacksaw - you are likely to get a slightly ragged end to the pipe and VERY likely to get some bits down inside the pipe! The little wheel cutters cost a Pound -and are SO easy to use and give a lovely clean cut with no 'bits'. But hack away if that's what suits you!
Well done xpress - these ends look fine !

[xpress]

i came back and these were the first two i did after bmc's instructions!

i used a cheap pound shop cutter, then a cheap pipe reamer to bevel/chamfer the edge, but the edge was pretty decent with the pound shop cutter, it just chamfered it nicely.

[taupe]

Yes nice shape and centralised properly

[xpress]

[xpress]

just checking but the pipe going into the master cylinder and front t piece takes single flare and uses a male nut?
and the pipe going from the front t piece to the female nut on the rubber hoses needs a double flare?

[taupe]

xpress

look in the hole youre going to screw the pipe in to ...... if you can see a cone pointing towards you you need a double flare ... if its pointing away you need a single (bubble) flare.

I think you will find the front tee needs double flares, but check as above first

Taupe

[charlie_morris_minor]

nice looking results..might even get one myself..