Pick up Restoration (Part 2)

[davidmiles]

not sure how many others are doing this, or even if it helps if you vehicle gets stolen, but I've marked the index number on as many solid, level components as I can. It was either the index or my postcode, but I never know if I'll move address in the future. Even so at least I'll be able to prove ownership in a case of a "rung" motor.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

trying to avoid the brum brumming temptation...at the moment its just a dream, but what a dream. [frame][/frame]

[DAVIDMCCULLOUGH]

One day soon David

[davidmiles]

three cheers for fairmile, prompt delivery of the parts I ordered, nobody else seems to supply, the rear corner gussett ect, hand made. The pyramid shaped one I never really understood the shape of, well here it is....[frame][/frame]

[MarkyB]

Are the top bits in the picture galvanised?
I believe there are issues with the fumes given off when you weld galvanised metal though I've done it (in the open air) and I'm still here to tell the tale.

[les]

I looked at the fairmile site yesterday, wondering if there was a certain panel available. I was suprised to see so many sections for the lcv! I've spent months making roof guttering all round, bottom sections of the actual roof, top side flanges, end flanges and all those bits you've just received! Only to discover they're on the shelf, so to speak. My own fault of course, I just didn't think these bits would be popular enough to produce.

[davidmiles]

mark, I thought they were galvanised when I took them out of the parcel, best if I push the whole thing outside before I weld those on then. Les the whole lot only came to £32 including a fiver for p&p, well worth while.

[les]

Well my lot would have cost plenty more than that, but time saved would have been welcome, Just have to console myself with getting there in the end!

[davidmiles]

trial fitting the bits in there, not quite sure what to weld the gusset to, the box piece it is adjacent to has got to have the jutting out bits cut off so the gusset will fit squarly to it. At the moment I'm just welding the box piece to add strength to it.
I'm wondering where that rear top light wiring goes, does it need a hole drilled in the cargo floor under the covering triangle piece?
[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

studying the old rusted relic can show me some of the answer, like where the gusset attaches, but not where the wireing for the rear light goes, I'm wondering if the wires stay above the floor and not underneath it out of sight.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

POW,welding whiteout[frame][/frame]

[les]

Wiring goes below via a 3/8'' grommeted hole behind the protector.

[davidmiles]

easier on the eye, taken right after the trigger was released, look at the spalling still going.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

oh, thanks Les, so I do have to drill a new hole, and this is covered by the pyramid shaped cover for the rear light.

[les]

Yes, position it behind the cover on a flat area ( I think there is a raised pressing nearby)

[IaininTenbury]

Yes thats pretty much it. The inch wide flange on the gusset welds to the narrow face of the upright box section. Was spot welded originally, but impossible to get at when built up. I normally tack weld them on where you can get the welder in and a little run of seam weld along the bottom edge joining it to the floor.
And the hole for the wire in the floor just in front of where the end of the light unit ends up - covered by the, er, cover! Just as Les says.
Looking at your before photo, you'll need to clean off the remains of the old gusset to get a flat surface to weld to. Prob already done it by now, I only get to look at the message board every few days...
The body side stays are made from galv steel as they get a lot of debris and wet from the back wheels - it gives them a fighting chance of lasting. Best to grind or sand off the galv from the flanges at each end before welding, but really ist such a small area of weld just a quick burst on each end that its not a prob if not - even just keep the door open...

[davidmiles]

Thanks Ian, much needed and helpful advice, thank you, the grommet you mentioned that goes through the floor is shown clearly in this shot in my hand, this shot shows the cover tilted up, as its rusted through at the bottom I can't make out the screw hole, thats gone, but I've got a better idea of what I'm doing now.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

Shouldn't be too difficult to run a few tac welds there and a short seam along the bottom to attach it to the floor, I inserted the old light in there just to make sure the holes would line up, the original one had the inside hole slightly offset, so it doesn't seem to matter that mine are the same, the light base still makes it through.
[frame][/frame]

[campervan]

i have just read this post over a 3 night period how inspiring i have got a moggie in me garage for the best part of ten years,
i am now thinking of working on it thanks to your post i know its proberbly late in the restoration to be of any benefit but i couldent help notice you had a hand held welding mask in picture, spend about £40 i think maybe less and invest in an auto darkerning helmet it will free up your other hand and you can see what you are doing as a member of migwelding forum and ford transit forum trust me these two go hand in hand if you own a transit best bit of kit i own ,apart from mig welder
cant wait to see it finished as my first car was a morris van sue 287g banded wheels fur dashboard i have a soft spot for vans and pick ups
keep up the good work

[davidmiles]

thanks Campervan,great to hear your getting that old morris out. look forward to you starting your own resto thread. Here the rear corner gusset is tac welded in place.[frame][/frame]