Front Suspension Overhaul
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- Minor Fan
- Posts: 352
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- Location: Lancaster, England
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Front Suspension Overhaul
Started overhauling the L/H front suspension yesterday afternoon.
Slow progress...
replaced the missing upper bump rubber.
replaced the bushes in the top trunnion. The threads on the swivel pin & trunnion were in good condition.
Attempted to remove the track rod end & failed because I could not get the lock nut on the tie bar to come loose..should I try using heat on it??
Incidentally the track rod end came out of the steering arm with no problem at all, didn't need to use the joint splitter on it...rare?
As I was not able to get the old one off, I had to re-attach it to the steering arm
Problems occurred when I tried to replace the nyloc nut which hold the T/R end to the steering arm as the whole joint rotated when I screwed the nut.
I had to cut the rubber boot off in order to grip the pin above the steering arm to hold it & stop it turning with the nut.
So now I've still got the old TR end on, only now with no boot!
Another question is: can I remove the front lower wishbone to enable me to check and re-bush the lower trunnion?
I'm trying to do the job in stages & not dismantling anything I don't need to since this car is the Daily Car ( don't like to bring the Traveller out in the winter unless absolutely needed)
regards
Chris
Slow progress...
replaced the missing upper bump rubber.
replaced the bushes in the top trunnion. The threads on the swivel pin & trunnion were in good condition.
Attempted to remove the track rod end & failed because I could not get the lock nut on the tie bar to come loose..should I try using heat on it??
Incidentally the track rod end came out of the steering arm with no problem at all, didn't need to use the joint splitter on it...rare?
As I was not able to get the old one off, I had to re-attach it to the steering arm
Problems occurred when I tried to replace the nyloc nut which hold the T/R end to the steering arm as the whole joint rotated when I screwed the nut.
I had to cut the rubber boot off in order to grip the pin above the steering arm to hold it & stop it turning with the nut.
So now I've still got the old TR end on, only now with no boot!
Another question is: can I remove the front lower wishbone to enable me to check and re-bush the lower trunnion?
I'm trying to do the job in stages & not dismantling anything I don't need to since this car is the Daily Car ( don't like to bring the Traveller out in the winter unless absolutely needed)
regards
Chris
1958 4 door Morris Minor birch grey
1937 Austin Seven Ruby
1937 Austin Seven Ruby
Re: Front Suspension Overhaul
[quote][/Attempted to remove the track rod end & failed because I could not get the lock nut on the tie bar to come loose..should I try using heat on it??
Incidentally the track rod end came out of the steering arm with no problem at all, didn't need to use the joint splitter on it...rare?
As I was not able to get the old one off, I had to re-attach it to the steering arm
quote] not quite sure what you mean why do you want to remove the tie bar to change the tre,how could you re attach the old one surly you have got it off. Confused sorry
Incidentally the track rod end came out of the steering arm with no problem at all, didn't need to use the joint splitter on it...rare?
As I was not able to get the old one off, I had to re-attach it to the steering arm
quote] not quite sure what you mean why do you want to remove the tie bar to change the tre,how could you re attach the old one surly you have got it off. Confused sorry
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- Minor Legend
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Re: Front Suspension Overhaul
i think he meant track rod, not tie bar.
guessing the nut and TRE are rusted tight onto the track rod, meaning he can't remove it.
if it's just the lock nut that is rusted on then if i were you i'd be pleased! as then you know the tracking won't change when you re-fit.
guessing the nut and TRE are rusted tight onto the track rod, meaning he can't remove it.
if it's just the lock nut that is rusted on then if i were you i'd be pleased! as then you know the tracking won't change when you re-fit.
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- Minor Maniac
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Re: Front Suspension Overhaul
I had the same sort of problem recently, got the lock nut off but couldn't get enough leverage to get the tre moving.
Had to be taken to a garage for a dose of the heat wrench (oxyacetylene) before it would shift.
It needs something to heat it up fast and in the right area or the rubber boot will be toast, very smelly toast.
Had to be taken to a garage for a dose of the heat wrench (oxyacetylene) before it would shift.
It needs something to heat it up fast and in the right area or the rubber boot will be toast, very smelly toast.
"Once you break something you will see how it was put together"
Re: Front Suspension Overhaul
You get the TRE to grip in the steering arm buy putting a jack under it! And yes as hinted above - leave the locknut in place and just unscrew the TRE - but does it need renewing anyway. There are no renewable bushes in the lower king pin trunnion. The only bushes are in the eyebolt -and the tie-bar front mount. Hope you are using Poly bushes - certainly in the top kingpin mount to the damper arm.



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- Minor Fan
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Re: Front Suspension Overhaul
Yes,
Crossing my tie bars & track rods aren't I... But seems that you worked it out.
I did use poly bushes in the top trunnion, the old rubber ones were quite soft.
As for renewing the TRE, maybe it does not need it after all, the joint moves very freely but there is no discernible play in it. I could simply replace the cut off rubber by using one from my stock of new TREs
Regarding "putting a jack under the TRE". On this car (1958), the TREs point downwards into the arm . Interestingly the BMC Workshop Manual shows them pointing down but the Haynes manual shows them pointing up!
What's all that about?
In the bottom trunnion are 2 metal sleeve bushes. Are these what wear over time? They could be replaced as could the lower link fulcrum pin if it was worn. I am still wondering if this is possible by removing just the front wishbone, to save dismantling brakes, bearings, backplate etc.
I note that the suppliers do not seem to sell these metal bushes separately, only complete trunnion kits.
Thanks for all the comments & advice!
Chris
Crossing my tie bars & track rods aren't I... But seems that you worked it out.
I did use poly bushes in the top trunnion, the old rubber ones were quite soft.
As for renewing the TRE, maybe it does not need it after all, the joint moves very freely but there is no discernible play in it. I could simply replace the cut off rubber by using one from my stock of new TREs
Regarding "putting a jack under the TRE". On this car (1958), the TREs point downwards into the arm . Interestingly the BMC Workshop Manual shows them pointing down but the Haynes manual shows them pointing up!
What's all that about?
In the bottom trunnion are 2 metal sleeve bushes. Are these what wear over time? They could be replaced as could the lower link fulcrum pin if it was worn. I am still wondering if this is possible by removing just the front wishbone, to save dismantling brakes, bearings, backplate etc.
I note that the suppliers do not seem to sell these metal bushes separately, only complete trunnion kits.
Thanks for all the comments & advice!
Chris
1958 4 door Morris Minor birch grey
1937 Austin Seven Ruby
1937 Austin Seven Ruby
Re: Front Suspension Overhaul
Apart from the two renewable bushes ACA 4009There are no renewable bushes in the lower king pin trunnion

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- Minor Fan
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Re: Front Suspension Overhaul
Oh.
Renewable bushes ACA 4009...what & where from, please.
Renewable bushes ACA 4009...what & where from, please.
1958 4 door Morris Minor birch grey
1937 Austin Seven Ruby
1937 Austin Seven Ruby
Re: Front Suspension Overhaul
Well - that's the problem - where to get the bushes, and they would need reaming after fitting -so generally they are not considered 'renewable'. But of course - if determined - anything is possible. The pin does wear - so yes it can be renewed and will take up some of the wear if there is any......... A replacement trunnion really is the easiest way to do the job. I'm probably mixing up Mini and Minor thinking the TRE comes from below....... - but if the taper nose of the TRE is just spinning in the steering arm - something is possibly worn. Maybe grip with a G clamp till the nut starts to bite.



Re: Front Suspension Overhaul
as for the rusted nut on the rack arm Heat it up or put a hammer on the flat of the nut and hit the other side with another hammer that usually frees the tre which can then be screwed off.If you have new tres may as well fit them then forget about them for a few years. usually the new ones screw on ok since the new nylock nut nips the joint up enough. If not then turn the steering hard over so you can pinch the tre up with a g clamp or mole grips against the steering arm. Sometimes tapping the top of the tre with a hammer can get it to grip,or put a load of spacer washers on the tre and screw up part way before the nylock grips it just pulls the taper into the steering arm and you can still just unscrew the nut and take the washers off for full tightening. Be carefull not to let the nut go too far onto the threads or it will lock up and you will have the same spinning to try to get it off.good luck
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- Minor Maniac
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Re: Front Suspension Overhaul
my track rod ends have split pins as opposed to nylock nuts,
Re: Front Suspension Overhaul
[ quote]my track rod ends have split pins as opposed to nylock nuts,(quote) even better then bound to get them off
Re: Front Suspension Overhaul
Chris
Moss used to do these bushes at 49p each but now show no longer stocked.
IN Racing appear to list them http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/s ... ogle.co.uk
As BMC says its probably easier to replace the whole trunnion if you dont have the correct reamer.
Moss used to do these bushes at 49p each but now show no longer stocked.
IN Racing appear to list them http://webcache.googleusercontent.com/s ... ogle.co.uk
As BMC says its probably easier to replace the whole trunnion if you dont have the correct reamer.
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- Minor Fan
- Posts: 352
- Joined: Tue Apr 13, 2010 9:11 pm
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Re: Front Suspension Overhaul
Thanks, Kennatt& Taupe,
all noted
all noted
1958 4 door Morris Minor birch grey
1937 Austin Seven Ruby
1937 Austin Seven Ruby