Front Suspension Overhaul

[Chris Edgar]

The appalling state of the roads & the subsequent rattles coming from the front suspension makes me think that an overhaul is on the horizon.

Trouble is, not having done it before, I'm not sure where to start.
There are so many listed components associated with the suspension it would cost a lot to get them all & then maybe find that it's only certain parts need replacing.
For example, should I order all the bushes (poly?), replacing them first & "see how it goes"

I have acquired a new king pin with top & bottom trunnions but bushes etc would be needed, so that's a starting point for one side. What should I buy as a good set of parts before commencing work?

As for the track rod ends..what is recommended as the best type of joint splitter? Did it years ago on a Mini with hammers & it wasn't funny. I think I deserve an easier time now!

All advice from Learned Counsel appreciated!

thanks
Chris

[bmcecosse]

Get a proper scissor type splitter - worth it's weight in gold. Get polybushes for everything - except the back half of the tie-bar front mount where rubber gives that little bit of compliance. And make sure the bump stops and rebound stops are present and correct. The dampers will benefit from draining and refilling with SAE 40 engine oil (that's NOT SAE 10W40) !!

[Jefftav]

I have a forked splitter and one you turn against the threaded bit of the TR end to prise the TR end off but if you are careful the fork one is OK but it can ruin the rubber gaiters on your TR ends so be careful if you are reusing them.

With the car on the ground press down on each wing in turn a make sure the dampers are damping the suspension travel and investigate any knocks.

Get you car on stands and have a good look around underneath checking for anything loose, hold the road wheel at 12 & 6 O'clock and give it a push & pull to see if there is any movement in the wheel bearings, grease/oil the trunnions and check bushes as rubber ones can split and perish and also check the bump stops are still there. Spin each wheel in turn and check tyre condition as if you have been going through a lot of potholes then wheels can get buckled and also check wheel nuts are tight. Depending on what you find might decide the best course of action and waht parts you may need.

If you are replacing bushes poly bushes are good and almost indestructible.

[Chris Edgar]

Thanks for the replies.
All your advice is gratefully noted!
I already have SAE 40 in the dampers.

I have read (somewhere) that the swivel pin threads go "sharp edged" when the swivel pin is worn. so I will look out for that while I am on.

Chris

[David53]

Basically you need to jack the front of the car up, put axles stands under the chassis rails on each side, remove the wheels and the start taking everything apart. The manual will have full instructions. The main thing is the take the weight off the system with a jack before you remove the swivel pin from the suspension arm, then gradually lower the arm back down with a jack. There is a lot of tension in the system and it must be removed safely before proceeding.

Then its just a case of dismantling the suspension components - there are not that many! Parts are cheap, and I would suggest replacing all the trunnions and all the bushes while you have it apart, and prob new wheel bearings while you're at it. Give everything a good clean and a lick of paint then reassamble with plenty of grease in the trunnions and bearings. It's a weekend job once you have all the parts and I guarantee you will notice a big difference in how the car drives and feels

[Declan_Burns]

Chris,
The rubber tie bar bushes currently being sold are far too hard and cannot be compressed. Try and get NOS.
Regards
Declan

[chrisryder]

if you replace the bushes, check the condition of the pins that are inside the bushes too. these often corrode if water has got in and then the rough surface will wear out the new bushes.

if the wheel bearings seem ok, i wouldn't change them as a matter of course, new ones are reputed to be a bit dodgy, and difficult to get the play out of them. i'd leave them alone unless you can feel play in them or grumbling/notchy noises when rotated by hand.

[Chris Edgar]

Thanks, David, Declan & Chris for that advice.

I had a good look yesterday without dismantling (greased everything at the same time).
I can clearly see that the rubber bushes at the top trunnions are past their best. So I will get the parts together & do the job soon.

I took some photos of the disc brakes on which I'm sure that I can see the Ford logo...I'm wondering if anyone can identify the donor car. There's plenty of meat on the pads at present. It's not obvious to me how the pads , when needed, are replaced

Bye the way what does NOS mean?


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[Matt Tomkins]

greased everything at the same time

other than the brakes, of course!

Bye the way what does NOS mean?

NOS means New Old Stock

[bmcecosse]

The outer clamp comes off - and the pads just fall out. These single pistons calipers are excellent - I used Fiesta calipers on my Mini and the resulting brakes were fantastic. Whatever else you do - you MUST fit poly bushes in the top trunnion of the kingpin - they make a huge improvement. When you are finished - be sure to retrack the wheels....... Oh and I agree - leave the bearings alone if they are ok/no play..........

[Chris Edgar]

Roy.....yes, I had noticed that they only had the one piston...not sure what you mean by the "outer clamp" & I gather from what you say, that these are from a Ford Fiesta. They certainly are VERY good at stopping the car.

I note your comments on poly bushes for the top. Thanks, I will.

One thing that baffles me ( actually there are still a lot of things that baffle me) is exactly where to set the nut, bushes & washers at the end of the tie-bar. Is a matter of as tight as possible? If I do it wrong, geometry will surely be affected.

Also I saw that the bump stop rubbers are missing on both sides, so will replace them.

Thanks, Matt, for the explanation of NOS. Does that mean unused i.e effectively parts that have been on the shelf for a long time as opposed to stock that has been recently made as a substitute for the original?
I can't think of a witty enough reply re. greasing the brakes!

regards

Chris

[Matt Tomkins]

Thanks, Matt, for the explanation of NOS. Does that mean unused i.e effectively parts that have been on the shelf for a long time as opposed to stock that has been recently made as a substitute for the original?

i believe so.

I can't think of a witty enough reply re. greasing the brakes!

ask the queen mother... too soon?

[bmcecosse]

Tight as possible for the tiebar nuts. I use a poly bush on the outside and a (nos!) rubber bush on the inside of the tiebar front mount. This gives some compliance - and allows the nut to be tightened right up, pulling the castor angle up nicely.

[beero]

If my memory serves me well I think I have changed pads like that on a Mk1 XR2. There is a plastic cover that you have to lever off and then use a large allen key (available from motor factors, especially supplied for Ford brakes) to undo the two bolts and the whole caliper comes off to renew the pads.

[bmcecosse]

The steel wire clip holds it all together.

[Chris Edgar]

Thanks, Chaps

I think I'm getting my head around it now!

[irmscher]

i am glad you asked this question Chris as its my next job let us know how you go on

[Chris Edgar]

Will do, though I'm not sure when I'm going to start.

Chris

[MarkyB]

Start by soaking all the nuts and bolts with Plus gas or similar, it wont do any harm, and may well help when you come to work on it.