handbrake cable
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handbrake cable
hi there, is it enough to slacken the cable off at the handbrake to slip them off the wheel cylinders, what's the procedure for this? if i were to add some washers near the handbrake end, what size and how many would you recommend? cheers!
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Re: handbrake cable
There is masses of adjustment on the handbrake cables, if it is all used up it suggests that the drums or shoes are very worn, the cable has stretched or there is a crack in the floor under the handbrake.
You did slacken off the handbrake before you adjusted the rear brakes didn't you?
You did slacken off the handbrake before you adjusted the rear brakes didn't you?
"Once you break something you will see how it was put together"
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Re: handbrake cable
erm, i took the handbrake off to the down position but didn't slacken the cable off? i am just trying to get her mot passed, if anyone's locally around and can help me sort a couple of things out, (begging on the internet for help lol)i can't afford petrol in anything else than the moggie at present! :'(
Re: handbrake cable
I'm sure we have been over this many times already...........you must slacken off the cables ie loosen the adjustment nuts - and THEN tighten up the rear brakes on the adjusters in the hubs - and then tighten the cables to give the handle where you like it.



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Re: handbrake cable
The correct way to adjust the back brakes and handbrake is to support the axle on stands, remove the back wheels and release the handbrake fully. Remove the brake drums and check that the shoes are in good condition, if so then replace the drums.
Grease the handbrake cables and apply a smear of grease on the inner cables at the axle end. Also a smear of oil on the sliding piston slot, taking care not to let any run down the inside of the backplate.
Tighten the brake adjusters until the the drums lock and then release the adjusters one click (one adjuster on each side)
Give the brake pedal a couple of pushes to centralise the shoes and spin the drum to check that it is turning freely, if not you may have to release the adjuster another click. Push the brake pedal again to check that the drums are locking and turning when released.
Pull on the handbrake which should be fully on at about four clicks. Replace the wheels and check that they are both locked on.
Release the handbrake one click so that both wheels are partly locked, there should be the same resistance to turning on each wheel. If not or there is too much handbrake movement then adjust up the cables so that the brakes are pulling up together.
Do not forget to tighten the wheel nuts when the car is on the ground and before replacing the hub caps
Grease the handbrake cables and apply a smear of grease on the inner cables at the axle end. Also a smear of oil on the sliding piston slot, taking care not to let any run down the inside of the backplate.
Tighten the brake adjusters until the the drums lock and then release the adjusters one click (one adjuster on each side)
Give the brake pedal a couple of pushes to centralise the shoes and spin the drum to check that it is turning freely, if not you may have to release the adjuster another click. Push the brake pedal again to check that the drums are locking and turning when released.
Pull on the handbrake which should be fully on at about four clicks. Replace the wheels and check that they are both locked on.
Release the handbrake one click so that both wheels are partly locked, there should be the same resistance to turning on each wheel. If not or there is too much handbrake movement then adjust up the cables so that the brakes are pulling up together.
Do not forget to tighten the wheel nuts when the car is on the ground and before replacing the hub caps
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Re: handbrake cable
If the brakes are in a 'mess' - you MUST first slacken the cables at the lever - then proceed as above - and then tighten the cables again.


