Daisy finally arrives in Hong Kong

[swithland]

nice looking little car.
the oil pipe is available in copper, just go to your local car parts place and buy a metre or so of the correct size copper tube, get a couple of olives (little brass things that slide over the line after slipping the nuts on first and get clamped up when the nuts are tightened) you may have to shop around a specialist copper pipe shop etc for the olives and fit it in. I had mine chromed to look good. if the pipe is hard to get also try refrigeration shops they use copper in their fridges.
However the plastic is designed to handle the high pressure I don't think you need to fret about it, and copper is not invulnerable, it goes hard and brittle and fatigue cracks. Which reminds me. if you do go copper always bend a couple of full circles at each end, wind arouind a broom handle or something like that. This allows the copper to 'spring' and reduces the fatigue aspect. As a ponder, maybe stainless steel would be available also. no need to chrome.

I received a plastic type pipe and fittings through the post the other day and have fitted that to keep me going. Will change to copper at some point, but now that its all working fine am focussing my attention on the new door draught excluders which are preventing the doors from shutting without a major slamming session. Ive already tried mole gripping the dammed flanges and moving them inwards, but its just not making any difference. The chrome striker plate is already as far out as it will go and its not possible to move it any further as there is a captive nut and bracket going on behind the pillar that stops any frther outward adjustment.... I am going to see if I can move the door out a little on the hinges this afternoon.....a real pain.....

[swithland]

So today ive taken the day off work to get a few jobs done before the MOT this Thursday. I received a complete set of Static Steat Belts from the UK yesterday which look great although her indoors thinks they should have been black or beige rather than the grey. Im thinking she may well be right......but they still look OK. Im glad the new Sills I fitted had the pre-welded nut inside the sill to take seat belts. It was a simple case of bolting the brackets to the side of the sills. The other holes were made with a 12mm steel drill.....3hrs later....job done !!

After that, I sorted out the slight dribble on the end of the main brake pipe connector where it joins the flexi pipe near the rear diff. When I unscrewed it I discovered a split in the head of the pipe.....glad I grabbed the bull by the horns and sorted it because that would have been a certain MOT failure. A few pics showing the split pipe are below. It only took ten minutes to chop the pipe back an inch, slide a new connector screw on and reform the end, then screw back in. Then another 15 minutes to bleed all the brakes ( twice....just to be sure ). Whilst sorting the pipe, I repalced the two bleed nipples on the back because when I restored the car I hadnt got any new ones knocking around and used the old ones......which were not pretty !!

Then I fitted a clear acetate sheet over the speedo that I laser printed off in the office with a conversion from MPH to KPH. Looked great until I over tightened the gold cover panel and cracked the glass !! Had to go down to Wanchai market to get another glass face cut.......only about 3 quid, but a hassle anyway....

Finally, I got my tin of black hammerite out and painted up all the underloor brackets that hold the seat belt bolts in place. All looks very tidy.

The only other slight disaster was that I dropped one of the large metal plate nuts down inside the rear quarter and it landed nicely in a spot that my hand could not reach !! If I dont get it out, it will clatter every time I go over a bump..... I can see it from the underside where the water escape hole is at the back of the outer sill. Im thinking of somehow using a coat hanger wire to push through the hole, through the large nut plate upwards and grab it when it gets to a high enough position.......very stupid thing to do in the first place and if I had been a little more patient it would not have happened ( famous last words )....

Anyway, a productive day......and I had to chat with at least 5 or 6 passers by that wanted to know all about the car [frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame][frame][/frame]

[Declan_Burns]

The car is looking very well indeed-nice job!
Those metal seatbelt plates normally have a hole in them to attach a piece of string so they can be retrieved when the vanish into Moggyland.
http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... 9534ae61a2
Try a magnet inside the end of 1/2" convoluted tube-also useful for retrieving debris from the bottom of the A-post.
Regards
Declan

[swithland]

Im going to try a bit of blue tack on the end of a bamboo cane on Saturday and give that a wizz first. If I can find a magent in matthew's toybox, then I will give that a try too !! I think there may be a few washers and bits that ive dropped down there during the restoration although I dont hear any rattling when im on the road.

Does anyone kn ow if its worthwhile putting sound deadning material under the rear seats ? Im also thinking of putting sheets of it between the rear quarter and arm rest next to the back seat...just wondering if anyone has tried this and if it makes the road noise any quieter....not that im really too concerned.

[faversham999]

This is the stuff they use on the make over shows in the US its very good and should be used in small strips it is very light.
UK ebay number 250710803149

[LouiseM]

Here's the link: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 3D1&_rdc=1

There's been quite a few threads here about sound deadening - use the search facility (top right hand corner) to find them

[chrisryder]

with regards oil pressure pipes, i've only got the plastic variety, and last year i had a sticking oil pressure release valve that meant the first time i started up the minor the oil pressure gauge flew up to 100 (which was it's top limit so it could have been taking higher pressure than that!) and i can report that the pipe didnt fail me!

turns out the previous owner did something right

[swithland]

with regards oil pressure pipes, i've only got the plastic variety, and last year i had a sticking oil pressure release valve that meant the first time i started up the minor the oil pressure gauge flew up to 100 (which was it's top limit so it could have been taking higher pressure than that!) and i can report that the pipe didnt fail me!

turns out the previous owner did something right

My oil pressure starts off at 80 psi and eventually settles down to about 30 - 40 psi once its got properly hot. Im wondering if my relief valve is a bit sticky...where exactly it is ?

[swithland]

Here's the link: http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 3D1&_rdc=1

There's been quite a few threads here about sound deadening - use the search facility (top right hand corner) to find them

Looks so good, ive just ordered a roll from the ebay shop !! Going to get busy on the doors, rear quarters, under rear seats....basically anywhere that it can deaden noise !! Thanks for the link ;-)

[swithland]

with regards oil pressure pipes, i've only got the plastic variety, and last year i had a sticking oil pressure release valve that meant the first time i started up the minor the oil pressure gauge flew up to 100 (which was it's top limit so it could have been taking higher pressure than that!) and i can report that the pipe didnt fail me!

turns out the previous owner did something right

My oil pressure starts off at 80 psi and eventually settles down to about 30 - 40 psi once its got properly hot. Im wondering if my relief valve is a bit sticky...where exactly it is ?

Does anyone know what pressure the relief valve kicks in ?

[chrisryder]

i think it's pressure is governed by spring stength and how many washers are under the head of the retaining bolt.

the flow of oil goes behind the plunger, and as the pressure increases it overcomes the force of the spring and diverts the oil away.

since i rebuilt my whole engine my pressure gauge now reads 60 when its cold and goes down to about 50 when warm.

you dont need much pressure, too much is just power wasted pressurising the oil. apparently 40 or so is plenty.

you can buy adjustable relieft valves from mini spares that have a knurled knob so you can dial in your exact amount of pressure. i'd take the spring and plunger out if i were you, but if you do it with the engine full of oil it wont stay full of oil for long! next time you do an oil change you could take the plunger and spring out to inspect it.

unless somebody else comes along with a better suggestion!

[the-green-monkey]

Lovely car and cool video. Love all the bond music ;) very british

[katy]

My oil pressure starts off at 80 psi and eventually settles down to about 30 - 40 psi once its got properly hot. Im wondering if my relief valve is a bit sticky...where exactly it is ?

Here ya go...

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not lost it's tension. The latter can be checked by measuring the length of the spring. To give the correct relief pressure of 60 lb./sq. in. (4.4 kg/cm²) this should be not less than 2-7/8" (7.3 cm). Fit a new cup and spring if necessary.[

[autolycus]

Is anyone else rather concerned by the photos of the split brake pipe flare?

Two things strike me: it looks as though the pipe fitting doesn't have much of a countersink to its end; and I've only seen pipes split like that if they've been formed in one operation, as against an Op1 punch forming a convex flare followed by the Op2 punch hollowing the end into the required concave shape. What sort of tool was used in this case?

Kevin

[swithland]

Is anyone else rather concerned by the photos of the split brake pipe flare?

Two things strike me: it looks as though the pipe fitting doesn't have much of a countersink to its end; and I've only seen pipes split like that if they've been formed in one operation, as against an Op1 punch forming a convex flare followed by the Op2 punch hollowing the end into the required concave shape. What sort of tool was used in this case?

Kevin

These are brake pipes that I bought as a set from ESM. Would have preferred something beter than copper ( kunifer / copper mix would have been better ), but at the time thats all I could get hold of. I agree that the flare looks very flat. I do recall when I fitted that pipe seeing a tiny nik on the end , but thought nothing of it at the time.....then after the leak I tried to tighten it up further thinking I had not tightened enough which is completely the wrong mentality when its already very tight !!

Anyway, I recut the tube a little further back, then reformed the flare...only took ten minutes and the job was done and no longer leaks.

Although buying preformed pipes is very convenient, I have found that sometimes the pipes are too long, so from now onwards I will form my own.

[swithland]

My oil pressure starts off at 80 psi and eventually settles down to about 30 - 40 psi once its got properly hot. Im wondering if my relief valve is a bit sticky...where exactly it is ?

Here ya go...

frame][/frame]

not lost it's tension. The latter can be checked by measuring the length of the spring. To give the correct relief pressure of 60 lb./sq. in. (4.4 kg/cm²) this should be not less than 2-7/8" (7.3 cm). Fit a new cup and spring if necessary.[

Thanks for the picture, I can see clearly which nut to undo now..Is it true that with the engine full of oil, it will come gushing out if I take the valve out to inspect ?

[katy]

Only if it's running.
If you're going to take it apart to inspect, it would be best to do it when the engine is cold and been sitting so the oil can drain back to the sump.
There is a little more info on the next page of the BMC manual. If you don't have the manual I can scan and paste it for you.

[mrsnak]

Really enjoyed that video! Thanks for sharing the adventure.

[swithland]

Really enjoyed that video! Thanks for sharing the adventure.

Hope to make some more videos once Daisy is finally registered but that wont be until early January Glad you liked the videos but sorry to everyone that they were very amateur !!

[swithland]

A great day today. We went to the Gold Coast Hotel for lunch. When we arrived, it seemed like we were film stars arriving in Daisy. People went crazy with their cameras. Daisy is certainly becomming a real celebrity here in Hong Kong. I wish I had shipped her over years ago !! Who would believe that with all the Ferraris, Lambo's, Porchers, Beamers, Rollers and Mercs in Hong Kong that a modest car like Daisy the Morris Minor would take the spotlight ??? Amazing !! Proof that the Morris Minor is truely the King ( or rather Queen in Daisy's case ) of the road !![frame][/frame]