I found an old Morris Minor M/Cylinder cap tapped the correct rhread in the top -after fileing the top of tha cap flat .
Connected up , put the pressure in from the spare wheel ( After filling E/Bleed container ! )
Worked like a dream. I used the silicon brake fluid .
Hope this helps ??
i've actually found some instructions and it talks of the morris minor mod.
either 10mm drilled hole for other master cylinder mods, but for morris, tap a 1/8" BSP thread in the centre of the reservoir cap using tapping size 8.6mm (1/32") drill. Where a vent hole is provided this should be blocked from inside the cap or the drilling should be made through it.
it doesn't saying anything about filing the cap flat, but since it's so wide, and the thread is so small, i would have thought it would help. however, the drilled out thread should be good enough to hold a seal once screwed in tight by hand and nipped up a bit more. any good places or helpers near me where i can get my old master cylinder cap tapped with this thread?
The M/C cap on the M/M has a nut shape in the centre ( if my memory is correct ? ) . The nu top has to be filed - not the whole cap.
Use PFTE tape to seal the tapped thread and if needed anywhere else where leaks appear !!
Try ESMotors or Bulmoif for a cap . You need an engineer to tap the thread or buy a cheap
thred tapping set Arfron
arfron, you don't need to file down the top nut unless you want to add the brass nut on the other side is that right? because the thread tightened up would hold things suitably i would have thought? on the other hand, if not filed down and just tapped, would the hole be too big to pass the thread and the pipe through to the other side? i have a very ancient old cap to use, and the top nut can be filled down quite easily since it's gone a bit soft and maybe made of iron? but on the other side it looks like tin foil, i am not sure how thick the cap is after the nut. very thin i would say.
charlie: yes, that would have been ideal and a good price too!
bmc: would i be right in thinking you don't have to file down the top nut because the thread will hold that tube sufficiently? also bearing in mind that my old cap has a hole in the middle already that i put a screwdriver in! i will have to see what state it's in after tapping a thread into it, i might file the top down tomorrow and see what it's like. this is the old old filler cap, looks soft, like iron! worst comes to the worst, will take the new filler cap off, tap that, and get some sort of rubber cap to fill the tapped hole when not in use!
I imagine it's too thin to take any sensible thread........... But it's not my suggestion. I've never used an 'ezzibleed' or whatever it's called in my life. I just rely on gravity - it works....despite what others may say - it's never let me down (!) yet!!
bmcecosse wrote:I imagine it's too thin to take any sensible thread
i would tend to agree..
i would take out the internal parts of the cap and just try and drill through it just depends on the length of the part that goes though the cap. the kit appears to come with two sealing washers.
i might just go for it and drill a 10mm hole in there, cut out the wafer metal stuff in the inside, pass the tube through and try and do each side up tight with brass fittings, bung a load of silicone sealant on the inside as a failsafe and give it a whirl. can't see it not working, will try with just air first and listen out for any leaks at the top end of the circuit!