Flywheel backplate

[M_Temple]

Hello all - need some clarification please on two topics relating the engine backplate (between engine and flywheel)

I am restoring a Morris 1000 convertible from a wreck, and she is soon to receive her newly recon'd 1098 engine and gearbox. I find in my store of parts two different backplates - one a solid steel approx 1/4" thick one, and one made from approx 1/8" thick steel, but with the edges curved towards the gearbox. Which is the correct one? (and what is the other?). I assume it makes a difference as one would put the clutch assembly 1/8" closer the thrust bearing than the other. Both are stamped MOWOG, and I have both 948 and 1098 engines and gearboxes in the 'store', so they could have come from either, or indeed a 1275 I had once.

Secondly, both plates have the circular cup-shaped oil pump covers loose - they can easily be removed by hand. I believe these were soldered in place originally (although I can see no evidence of solder) - do I need to redo this, or is there a more modern, simpler, more effective alternative thses days? If I do need to resolder any tips on what to do/not do? I assume a good seal is necessary to avoid oil entering into the clutch housing (although every backplate I have ever removed had oil/black c**p on the clutch side in this area.

Thanks in anticipation.

Mick

[bmcecosse]

Thick backplate for 1098/1275 use - check if there are any cracks starting in it! Thin is for 803/948. The oil pump cover was NOT soldered in place - one of the many 'myths' I'm afraid. No oil should be present behind the pump. Abd there is a drain hole at the base of the oil pump cavity in the block anyway....... Note if you fit a new 'modern' pump (and you should!) - you may need to modify it slightly to get it to fit behind the cover

[M_Temple]

..... and thanks bmecosse for another prompt, useful .... and in this case .... very convenient (for me) reply.

Mick