Steering Rack Ball Joint Overhaul

[Alec]

Hello BMCE,

"pretty sure it will be at the base of the grip-slots in the cap - where it's thinnest!"

Surely not, as that is impossible to reverse without ruining the cap, or else ruining the threads by forcing it off. The logical way, without a tab washer is to upset the flange into the slot, which can then be punched back out. All this talk of grinding seems butchery to me?

Alec

[bmcecosse]

Indeed - but I don't suppose they cared about future adjustments - just making sure it wouldn't come undone in service!

[katy]

In my copy of the BMC service parts list, on page J.2 it shows item # 35, “Lock washer for male housing”, part # ACA5247, which in the parts illustration goes between the rack and the ball joint assembly. It’s an odd shape and appears to be a stamped sheet metal piece, partially cup shaped that could go over the flat piece and then be punched down into the slots of the bee hive shaped piece.

I think this is the piece that Pikey spoke about: “That joint is normally covered over with the special peening over washer anyway”

[klm]

Thanks for your further suggestions. I checked my BMC Service Parts List and ACA5247 is the lock washer that is installed over the ball joint assembly. The photograph above was taken after the lock washer was removed.

I had another careful look at the joint between the cap and the domed part and I found the peened location. I doubt if a pin punch would open the peening but I will try this weekend and let everyone know. I guess if the peening is removed the BMC pin spanner and the 'C' spanner would be sufficient to open the two parts.

The bottom photograph of the following image shows the components of the ball joint assembly with shims etc.[frame][/frame]

[klm]

Perhaps I over-reacted last week on noticing the peening marks at the bottom of one of the slots on the domed part of the joint. It turned out to be folding of the shim and by tapping with a pin punch did not make any difference. I am now back to where I started and the only option left is to think of a special tool to open the joints without causing further damage.

[grumpydad]

Hi KLM
would you like me to get a steering rack
or a good ball joint if i can get one
and ship it to you
i understand how hard it can some times be getting parts
I am in UK and trying to get parts for our 1939 cadillac
is almost impossible and no one will ship from USA to UK
so the offer is there if you want

[klm]

Hi grumpydad,

Thank you for the offer. I want to try again on the lathe next week to see if it would come off. The shipping (or postal) charges to Australia can be high sometimes it is not worthwhile importing from the UK.

Thanks again for the offer. I will let you know if I run out of options.

[Alec]

Hello KLM,

good grip on the cap in a chuck and a pair of stillsons will do the job, I'm sure. I'm assuming that you are familiar with the term Stillson but in case you are not this is the tool I mean:-


Alec[frame][/frame]

[bmcecosse]

Arghhhhhh. At least wrap some emery tape around the joint first.........

[Alec]

Hello BMCE,

that just wont work. Brutal as it may look the damage will be minimal, and is easily dressed with no detriment to the joint. Similar to your suggestion of using a chisel to remove rear wheel bearing nuts.

The other option is to make a pin spanner that can be held in the lathe tail stock. The tail stock will keep the pins (which need to be proper dowel steel) in engagement and allow a lot of torque to be applied.

Alec

[bmcecosse]

The emery tape if wound round tightly - WILL grip the nut under the Stillsons and prevent too much damage. My ' blunt chisel' if used correctly leaves virtually no mark!

[Alec]

Hello BMCE,

there's only about 1\8" width to grip, so maximum grip will be necessary.

Alec