Steering Rack Ball Joint Overhaul

[klm]

Can someone advise how to open the ball joint assembly shown on the attached image to remove a shim so that the the ball assembly can be adjusted? All my attempts to unscrew the cap of the assembly have failed. I even tried to unscrew it by installing on a lathe. Is it necessary to grind off some sections of the cap and then apply force to unscrew the cap?[frame][/frame]

[bmcecosse]

Yes - the cap has been pinched in - it's much easier on the Mini version. Not sure there are any shims - but you can probably remove a small amount from the cap and that should tighten the joint up nicely.

[klm]

Thanks bmcecosse, The shims are visible at the joint. When you state that the cap has been pinched in, is the cap sealed towards the semi-circular shaped cover? Which section of the cover should I grind off to separate the two parts of the ball joint covers?

[bmcecosse]

I've only ever done this on a Mini - very very similar design - I 'think' the pinch is that groove showing in your picture.

[Alec]

Hello KLM,

the dome cap has a slot visible, is the base peened in on the oposite side into the slot, if so use a punch to reverse that.

To my mind to unscrew it, put the cap in the lathe chuck again and either make a pin spanner or the crude way is a pair of good stillsons on the base. If you do the latter, it will dress up with a file afterwards.

Good luck.

Alec

[katy]

BMC had special tools for this, #18G312 and # 18G313, see page Q.11 of the workshop manual.
You could try a pin spanner on the one side and a pipe wrench on the other, a small amount of heat on the beehive shaped part might help.

[bmcecosse]

Oh yes! Well spotted. I meant to have a look at the new ones I have in stock today - but forgot.......sorry. Garage all blocked up with TR7 again now - but will look later in the wek.

[klm]

Thanks for your responses and valuable suggestions. I had a good look at the interface near the slots and cannot see any peening marks at the base. I am planning to use a thin hacksaw to clear the gap between the domed part and the cap near the slots to see if it would make a difference. Any comments?

[Alec]

Hello KLM,

that would be the last possible resort short of buying a new one.
The two parts will unscrew, as long as you get a good grip on both components. I'd be wary about heating them as there may be a plastic thrust pad inside, there is one on my Triumph anyway?

Alec

[katy]

If you're having trouble getting it apart, how are you going to be able to re-tighten it properly when you re-assemble it?

[MarkyB]

You need service tool 18G 312;[frame][/frame]

Not sure how you use it but this is what the good book says.
What is noticeable is what a lot of leverage it would give, so I think we are into veins on forehead bulging territory here.

[Pikey]

Although not the ideal tools to use and bit of a bodge, Ive undone the ball joint with a pipe wrench and a stilson. It might damage it slightly but its easily dressed up with a file. Ive taken a shim out of mine and its ok.

That joint is normally covered over with the special peening over washer anyway, that fits into the "keyway slot" so any damage that you do to the area will be protected and wouldnt damage the steering gaiter boot.

Do you have a micrometre? I needed one for mine, you'll have a lot of trial runs otherwise. i.e take out the thinest shim.

regards

Steve

[bmcecosse]

Easy enough to make the 'special tool' - but i'm sure it can be done without.

[klm]

Many thanks for your responses. I am beginning to think if the BMC pin spanner would be strong enough to separate the ball joint. For some reason the ball joints I have are very tight and when it was installed on a lathe last time I guess I applied a greater force than the pin spanner could handle. While searching the internet for clues I found the folowing link of a forum on the same subject. It appears that the joint didn't separate with heat or force and a grinder had to be used to cut a groove.

http://www.britishcarforum.com/bcforum/ ... r_Tie_rods

[bmcecosse]

I can't imagine where he got new 'caps' ! Heating cherry red would have lost the heat treatment anyway.

[Alec]

Hello KLM,

if the pin spanner bent, then a pair of stillsons will do the job I think,you can get a lot of grip and leverage with one.Try and keep you hands away from the grinder

Alec

[MarkyB]

A quick look at that pdf shows that a steering tie rod C spanner is required too.
A picture of a dismantled one would easily be worth 1000 words.
Interesting that it is so much harder to undo than a big end bolt.

[Alec]

Hello Marky,

as someone pointed out in an earlier post, there should be a locking washer between the base and cap. Perhaps to compensate for this the previous 'mechanic' decide to tighten it up securely to compensate for lack of positive locking.

The joint itself is pretty simple, a thrust pad and some shims to set the free play, held in place by the cap.

Alec

[klm]

The ball joints I have are original and the photograph of the assembly posted above is with the locking cap removed. The entire assembly does not show any signs of tampering to suggest that it has been separated before. I don't think there is a locking washer between the domed section and the cap. I have a photograph from a manual which shows the individual components including the shims and it does not show a locking washer. I will scan the photograph and post it here tomorrow.

I also spoke to a person who specialise on reconditioning of steering racks and he advised me that the two parts are locked and they usually grind off the locked area before attempting to unscrew the two parts. But, he wouldn't tell me the location (trade secret?).

If any of you have been successful in removing the ball joint please let me know if there are peening marks evident on the surface of the cap where it contacts with the domed part? Thanks

[bmcecosse]

I did advise ages ago that the cap had been 'pinched in' - pretty sure it will be at the base of the grip-slots in the cap - where it's thinnest!