Idiot's guide to an Oil Change

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Matt Tomkins
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Idiot's guide to an Oil Change

Post by Matt Tomkins »

Hi all.

I am about to perform an oil change on my moggie 1000 before getting it back on the road.
i've never done this before (first car), and wondered if i might ask for some advise.

1) what oil do i need?
2) How much?
3) Oil filter change - how???

... and anything else i need to know.


i know this is probably a stupid question, but i don't want to get it wrong and, for example, loose the oil filter springs and have no filtration.

any guidance would be greatly appreciated.

Thanks

Matt


http://www.flickr.com/photos/46862234@N ... 671969048/
http://www.facebook.com/matttomkins

Misty, Morris Minor 2-door, 1970,
fully restored with the help of various of the young members to whom i am forever grateful. http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=43571
Also Mavis, 1960 Factory Tourer, and a '69 Traveller project: http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=53487

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simmitc
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Re: Idiot's guide to an Oil Change

Post by simmitc »

Procedure:
Run the engine until warm, switch off
Place a suitable receptacle under the engine near the back. Undo the sump drain plug - wearing a rubber glove of some sort can be a good idea as you will almost certainly get oil on your hand. Don't lose the plug!
Oil will flow out. When it stops, pour a little fresh oil into the oil filler (top of rocker cover) and allow it to drain through, this acts as a small flush.
Replace the drain plug, preferably with a new copper washer.
Move the receptacle under the oil filter - front right hand side of the engine.
For screw on cannister (a modern conversion) use an oil filter wrench to remove the cannister - it just unscrews.
For original filter, under bolt at the bottom of the housing and remove the outer can with all the bits inside.
Again, gloves useful for both types!
With the original type, remove the paper element form the housing and discard - make sure that you don't throw away the pressure plate or other bits. Carefully note the order of assembly ready for refitting. Wash and dry the filter housing and then reassemble all the bits with a new filter. You will need to fit a new rubber O-ring to the underneath of the filter head - make sure that you remove the old ring, and that the new ring is seated properly. A touch of grease will help keep it in place.
Fill the new cannister or the filter bowl with fresh oil and refit to the engine.
Fill engine with fresh oil until at upper mark on dipstick.
Start the engine and check for leaks around the filter. CAUTION: moving parts like fan blades!
Stop the engine and leave to stand, then re-check oil level and top up as necessary.

You should do the gearbox oil at the same time. Make sure that you identify the drain plug, don't undo any other nuts or bolts! Filler is accessed through hole in left hand side of gear box cover, under the carpet. No filter for the gearbox.

Correct oil is 20/50 multigrade.
mike.perry
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Re: Idiot's guide to an Oil Change

Post by mike.perry »

I would disagree with the bit about changing the O ring. If it does not leak leave it alone, you will probably cause more problems trying to fit a new one, just smear it with oil. I can't remember when I last changed mine on my Series MM and I have just done an oil change with no leaks.
Also before starting the engine with fresh oil turn the engine over with the the ignition off or disconnect a coil lead if you have a key start, until the oil pressure light goes out. This will ensure that oil is circulating the engine and you will not be running the engine with no oil pressure whilst the filter bowl fills up
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Matt Tomkins
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Re: Idiot's guide to an Oil Change

Post by Matt Tomkins »

great
thanks v. much
i'll order the parts from ESM tomorrow, and perform the change asap - certainly before it's back oin the road.
I've also got to do a change on my dad's MG Midget - oil smells of fuel - this has the new type oil filter (just checked!), and mine has the original type.
i only wish i had a pit!


http://www.flickr.com/photos/46862234@N ... 671969048/
http://www.facebook.com/matttomkins

Misty, Morris Minor 2-door, 1970,
fully restored with the help of various of the young members to whom i am forever grateful. http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=43571
Also Mavis, 1960 Factory Tourer, and a '69 Traveller project: http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=53487

Join the young owners at: https://www.facebook.com/?ref=logo#!/gr ... [sig]11392[/sig]
bmcecosse
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Re: Idiot's guide to an Oil Change

Post by bmcecosse »

Make sure you know which way to turn the drain plug - so you don't strip the thread. I agree - don't worry about the O ring - but DO fill the oil cannister with fresh oil before you fit it. 20W50 from ASDA/Morrison is fine for these engines.
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Matt Tomkins
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Re: Idiot's guide to an Oil Change

Post by Matt Tomkins »

ESM do Castrol Classic Oil XL20w/50 1 Gallon (4.54 Lt.) at £13.50
that's about the same price as the oils i've seen in morrisons.
for this price, i think i'll go for that unless it'll have a detrimental effect???
thanks :)


http://www.flickr.com/photos/46862234@N ... 671969048/
http://www.facebook.com/matttomkins

Misty, Morris Minor 2-door, 1970,
fully restored with the help of various of the young members to whom i am forever grateful. http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=43571
Also Mavis, 1960 Factory Tourer, and a '69 Traveller project: http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=53487

Join the young owners at: https://www.facebook.com/?ref=logo#!/gr ... [sig]11392[/sig]
bmcecosse
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Re: Idiot's guide to an Oil Change

Post by bmcecosse »

That will be fine - but heavy on carriage unless you can collect. Asda etc stuff is plenty good enough!
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Matt Tomkins
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Re: Idiot's guide to an Oil Change

Post by Matt Tomkins »

i'm spending over £60 (again!) on various other finishing bits, gearbox oil etc, so free carriage.

Canb anyone offer any advise on changing the oil in the diff and gearbox?

Sorry for my total inexperience :oops: , but there's only one way to learn...


http://www.flickr.com/photos/46862234@N ... 671969048/
http://www.facebook.com/matttomkins

Misty, Morris Minor 2-door, 1970,
fully restored with the help of various of the young members to whom i am forever grateful. http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=43571
Also Mavis, 1960 Factory Tourer, and a '69 Traveller project: http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=53487

Join the young owners at: https://www.facebook.com/?ref=logo#!/gr ... [sig]11392[/sig]
bmcecosse
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Re: Idiot's guide to an Oil Change

Post by bmcecosse »

Madness to buy these oils where carriage has to be paid - just buy locally. The oil changes are clearly described in the Workshop Manual - do you have one ?
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mike.perry
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Re: Idiot's guide to an Oil Change

Post by mike.perry »

Why are you buying gear box oil? The A Series gear box uses engine oil. The diff uses EP90 oil
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Matt Tomkins
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Re: Idiot's guide to an Oil Change

Post by Matt Tomkins »

Oh. I didn't realise. Thanks.
Not placed the order yet, so I'll order enough 20-50 for engine and gearbox. Than I'll only need q litre for the diff.
Thanks alot.
Workshop manual in the post.

Matt.


http://www.flickr.com/photos/46862234@N ... 671969048/
http://www.facebook.com/matttomkins

Misty, Morris Minor 2-door, 1970,
fully restored with the help of various of the young members to whom i am forever grateful. http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=43571
Also Mavis, 1960 Factory Tourer, and a '69 Traveller project: http://www.mmoc.org.uk/viewtopic.php?f=28&t=53487

Join the young owners at: https://www.facebook.com/?ref=logo#!/gr ... [sig]11392[/sig]
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