MORRIS HEAD

[focusdave37]

HI ALL CAN SOMEONE TELL ME IF I CAN PUT A METRO 1275 CYLINDER HEAD ONTO A 1098 BLOCK

[PSL184]

Is it a 12g940 head? If so then yes you can it will go straight on. If it's a 12g295 it will require skimming to raise the compression ratio but after that will go straight on too.....

[mike.perry]

Please do not SHOUT

[bmcecosse]

Welcome to the Forum! The answer is yes, but - not 'straight on'. You need to make sure there is room for the exhaust valve - so - you need to measure accurately from the face of the valve to the face of the head - and if there is 320 thou (0.320") then all is well - if there is not sufficient space then you will need to sink the exhaust valves into the head - until there IS 320 thou space. Use the 1275 gasket and 1275 rockers - and probably need to file away a small part of the water pump to get clearance. The Metro head probably doesn't have a bypass hose - so either use the matching Metro water pump - or just block off the bypass on the pump. it's a very good performance improvement - IF you use the carb from the Metro and a larger bore exhaust, although that's not absolutely essential - it does help.

[focusdave37]

Welcome to the Forum! The answer is yes, but - not 'straight on'. You need to make sure there is room for the exhaust valve - so - you need to measure accurately from the face of the valve to the face of the head - and if there is 320 thou (0.320") then all is well - if there is not sufficient space then you will need to sink the exhaust valves into the head - until there IS 320 thou space. Use the 1275 gasket and 1275 rockers - and probably need to file away a small part of the water pump to get clearance. The Metro head probably doesn't have a bypass hose - so either use the matching Metro water pump - or just block off the bypass on the pump. it's a very good performance improvement - IF you use the carb from the Metro and a larger bore exhaust, although that's not absolutely essential - it does help.

JUST ABIT UNSURE IF I CAN GET THE HEAD TO GO ON AND USE THE 1275 ROCKERS WHAT DO YOU SET THE VALVE CLEARANCES AT

[bmcecosse]

12 inlets and 15 exhaust. But you MUST check the clearance distance.

[Declan_Burns]

You really need to re-align the rockers and the pressed steel rockers are better as advised by many on here.[frame][/frame]
That's what I used in the end. You also have to modify the heater stub or fit the earlier brass one.[frame][/frame]And add an angled transition piece or just make one single stub if fitting the original heater tap-this is one from a mini. Also a good view of the uprated Grumpy engine steady installed. A stainless tube over the threaded rod prevents it acting like a rasp and it looks better than the bare threaded rod. The cable ties on the LHS stop it rattling.[frame][/frame]
You will also need a new thermostat housing. A pre 1967 MGB is not far off (see below) but the one from the MMCB is better but not cheap. Mine will require a spacer under the thermost housing to realign the top hose as it is about 1 inch too low which I still haven't had time to fit. Some have just used a modified bottom hose.
[frame][/frame]
Regards
Declan

[Ratbag]

You really need to re-align the rockers and the pressed steel rockers are better as advised by many on here.[frame][/frame]
That's what I used in the end. You also have to modify the heater stub or fit the earlier brass one.[frame][/frame]And add an angled transition piece or just make one single stub if fitting the original heater tap-this is one from a mini. Also a good view of the uprated Grumpy engine steady installed. A stainless tube over the threaded rod prevents it acting like a rasp and it looks better than the bare threaded rod. The cable ties on the LHS stop it rattling.[frame][/frame]
You will also need a new thermostat housing. A pre 1967 MGB is not far off (see below) but the one from the MMCB is better but not cheap. Mine will require a spacer under the thermost housing to realign the top hose as it is about 1 inch too low which I still haven't had time to fit. Some have just used a modified bottom hose.
[frame][/frame]
Regards
Declan

Picking nits really - but these are solid steel rockers. Pressed steel rockers are std issue.
Phil.

[Declan_Burns]

They are actually sintered-and I just wanted to show that they need to be re-aligned. That's the question that was asked above. I used the pressed steel rockers which are slightly heavier and wider but stronger. This photo show what has to be done.
Regards
Declan[frame][/frame]

[joeone62]

Hi I have just noticed that you too have a water temp switch on your motor, but everyone is telling me that its not normal. Did you install it or was it already instaled and what engine is it thanks

[Declan_Burns]

The engine is a 1098cc but it's the head that's important. The temperatre sensor is not a switch and was a retrofit when I had the original head as they are not fitted and the thread is plugged. The photo below shows where it goes. It is an "Intermotor" Part no. 5271 which matched a temperature gauge from a mini.
Regards
Declan[frame][/frame]

[bmcecosse]

Indeed these ^^^^ are the sintered rockers - they are NOT 'solid steel' - far from it! However - they are fine on a standard head and a standard cam - and there is no need to re-align them (but of course no harm in doing so) - they are exactly as used on the 1275 engine and will work well enough on a 940 head transplant. The original 1098 pressed steel rockers (which are much stronger) MUST be realigned so they act directly over the valve tips. My 940 transplant was done without any heater tap/thermostat changes - these are refinements - but not essentials.

[joeone62]

Just another question regarding your temp switch, I have noticed that mine is connected to one of the warning lights of the speedo, and the warning light comes on even when the engine is not very hot, at first I was thinking that the switch was malfunctioning but could I be right in also saying that it should be connected to a temp gauge

[bmcecosse]

Yes Joe - we have been over this several times in the past - it should go to a gauge. Probably it has high enough resistance when cold to prevent the warning light glowing enough to be seen - and as it warms up the resistance drops and so the light begins to glow!
And - in all this time and after many helpful posts - the original poster has never came back!

[mike.perry]

Which light is it connected to?