panel beaters?

[les]

Do u know if panel beaters exist anymore, if so any suggestions? I need some dents in a roof removed.

[chickenjohn]

Go to a classic car restorer. Those chaps still have panel beating skills,

Or, look up the smart repair company called "dent devils", they may be able to effect a paint free dent repair.

[les]

Thanks for the reply, will check out some restorers, I was thinking panel bashing might be on it's way out! Paint damage is not an issue as the roof will need respraying.

[bmcecosse]

If it's the aluminium Traveller roof - it's not easy!

[les]

It's the steel van roof---and that's not easy either!

[RobMoore]

you could try dry ice on a hot day and it wont damage the car either

[les]

Thanks Rob, not heard of that one! I think the dents are too well established though and they are in the flatish corners near a strengthening profile.

[RobThomas]

Getting dents out of ally is difficult but not impossible. You need to 'tuck' the dent back in, piece by piece, since ally stretches so easily. With steel you can whack it back into shape fairly well with just a hammer but ally stretches all over the place. A wheeling machine makes it easy for small panels but a roof skin would be harder. I'd call it a 2-man job.

Steel dents can be pulled out with a fancy welding device that spotwelds steel rivet shafts onto the steel and then you can get a slide hammer on them. Anyone know what they are called? About £150 for a cheapo one, though.


Here is a panel I made in about 2 hours from flat 1.2mm sheet. Iain Fairmile makes them in steel for about £35, IIRC.

[MarkyB]

There are other ways:
http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/Original-DING-KIN ... lies_Paint

Never tried one but I've heard good reports about them.

How about a picture so we know what the dent in question looks like?

I rate RobThomas as being a panel beater from the previous post.

Filler is always an option, we wont tell .

[RobThomas]

This is the gadget I was thinking of. Some bodyshops use them.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=chWbjNmVs58

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=JxivphyQ ... re=channel

Ought to be some useful pointers leading off from these 2 clips.

[MarkyB]

Unless you plan on starting a body shop the investment in one of those doesn't make sense.

A picture of the dent/s would help a lot.

[les]

Picture to follow, although the dents do not show up too clearly.

[les]

Here is a shot of the roof, each corner, on the flattish area has a shallow dent about the size of a dinnerplate but not as regular. Another problem as can be seen, is the series of rust and pin holes around the edges. Forming the appropriate curves and shapes involved in letting in new metal not to mention avoiding distortion, is not something I am looking forward to, but unless another roof turns up I've not much choice!

[MarkyB]

The "other" problem is THE problem.
My guess is that the dents may have been caused by a roof rack being overtightened or overloaded.

However the real problem is, as ever, rust.
The "sandwich" design seems to encourage rust I'm afraid.
If the rain doesn't get you, then condensation will.

My friend has had a fibreglass roof fitted to her van which as survived daily use for a few years unscathed.
That would kill both birds with one stone and I recommend it to the house.

I'll find out who fitted it, how, and for how much if you like.

[les]

All info would be gratefully received thanks, It may be an option if I fail to be satisfied with my repair efforts.

[Alec]

Hello Les,

The gutter is not as difficult a job as it looks, time consuming, yes but not too difficult. Doing small lengths at a time, say 12 to 15", grind back the gutter to where the side and roof panels are just about to diverge and weld them together. i.e. so that the two panels are still closed, if you grind too much you'll get a gap and welding that will pull them together so distorting the panels. Better to grind too little than too much. (This is similar to the way that Minis used to be de-seamed). Then cut a strip about 5\8" wide and butt weld to the first weld. This will be the new gutter and can be trimmed and dressed to a curve later. Take your time with the welding so as not to put too much heat in at once.

The depression can be bumped out with a large diameter mallet initially, sometimes they'll pop out almost as it was . Sand to bare metal and fill. Don't be too heavy sanding the filler or you may push it back down.

Alec

[les]

Thanks for your time Alec, but if I read it correctly your process assumes the roof is still in place, whereas mine has been removed. So unfortunately I now have 3 areas to repair,1-- the flanges around the top of the van sides (now done), 2---the actual gutter section, (hopefully making soon) 3--- the roof itself where it curls up round the edges.( still thinking on this one) All these parts are then have to be assembled and spot welded together.