OIl Leak

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pistnbroke
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OIl Leak

Post by pistnbroke »

Despite rebuilding my engine I still have a slight drip from the clutch cover split pin hole - nothing like it was before but a leak never the less. Do I just have to suffer it or is there anything I can do about it.
billlobban
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Re: OIl Leak

Post by billlobban »

How bad is it - just a little drip? as far as I've been able to understand unless youre a machanical genius or can walk on water they all leak to some extent. I wouldnt worry unless it starts to pour out.
bmcecosse
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Re: OIl Leak

Post by bmcecosse »

The answer is - to ensure good suction on the crankcase with the rocker cover breather pipe attached directly to the inlet system - and not just spraying oil over the air filter cartridge. There is no actual 'seal' at the crank tail - so any pressure in the crankcase will tend to blow oil out there - and then it drips from the split pin hole.
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MarkyB
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Re: OIl Leak

Post by MarkyB »

Bmcecosse is right but if you have had a rebore and new pistons then they will take a little while to bed in, so it my improve in the near future.

"Once you break something you will see how it was put together"
mike.perry
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Re: OIl Leak

Post by mike.perry »

AsI have said before, it is called chassis lubrication, it prevents rust under the middle of the car. Just avoid parking on newly laid concrete block driveways, you will do Morris Minor reputation no good
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pistnbroke
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Re: OIl Leak

Post by pistnbroke »

I know this is an old post but I thought I had better update you the drip from the split pin hole has stopped completely but got a fair sized leak from the rear sump flange around where the crank enters the bellhousing. I'll have another go at it next oil change. Oil consumption is now 250 miles per pint after 2,000 miles since rebore. Is that OK?
MarkyB
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Re: OIl Leak

Post by MarkyB »

Not really, I'd suggest you drop the sump after you have drained it to change the oil and see what's wrong with the rear seal.
Resist the temptation to do the bolts up really tight as they are only small and may strip the threads leading to more problems.

"Once you break something you will see how it was put together"
Declan_Burns
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Re: OIl Leak

Post by Declan_Burns »

And consider using the synthetic rubber seals from the 1275 instead of the cork seals. Difficult to source but it works. My stocks are low-three travellers last weekend and all three with the same problem. More seals on order.
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Declan


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Declan
billlobban
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Re: OIl Leak

Post by billlobban »

Declan where is the best source of 1275 seals (OK for a 1098) as I to have a slight weep
Declan_Burns
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Re: OIl Leak

Post by Declan_Burns »

Bill,
I buy them locally but I have the feeling they get them from Moss. If you can't source it in the UK I have six on order but the guy is on holidays for the next two weeks. I can put you down for one if you wish. The seal has to be cut back with a hacksaw to fit the 1098 as there is a strengthening wire through it. Then dress with a file. Easy to do and only takes a few minutes and fits perfectly. My engine doesn't leak.
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Declan


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Declan
billlobban
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Re: OIl Leak

Post by billlobban »

Thanks Decaln I'll try Moss and if not pm you probably on the other site
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Bill
Declan_Burns
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Re: OIl Leak

Post by Declan_Burns »

That's fine Bill.
Declan


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Declan
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