Need info on parcel tray under the dash

[katy]

Am looking at re-doing the missing parcel tray in our '61 Morris 1000 2 door.
There is one bracket on the RH side by the foot space, which I can use for a pattern to fabricate and install one on the other side. And I can fabricate a piece to go between the 2 brackets and also connect to the heater. (I have lots of 1/2”x3/4”x1/2” light channel.)
What I would like to know is what does the tray fasten to at the firewall? Or does it go that far?
Does the tray sit horizontal? Or does it have a slope to it?
What is the tray material made out of? I imagine thin pressboard or similar.
Any pics would be truly appreciated.
TIA, Ken

[taupe]

The tray is secured to the engine bulkhead with 1/8" bifrucated rivets and a washer on the engine bay side. You will find a line of holes in your bulkhead.

The material is a kind of Millboard with a ' leather ' impression on it.

Im not sure of the colour for a 1961 car, my 63 delux traveller is a creamy colour.

There are more than 10 different styles of these trays!

[aupickup]

there was also a rivet in the battery box holding the middle of the dhelf up

[mike.perry]

Those are only the wide shelves, not the early narrow ones
I think I have 26A which I bought at the National Rally.
One question refers to the two holes on the edge which sits on the bar which do not line up with the two holes in the bar unless you turn the shelf upside down, when they line up exactly.
The other problem is that I cannot get the shelf to push far enough between the bar and cushion to be able to drill holes to fit the pop rivets

[taupe]

Hi

I think that the bar is secured with only one screw at the sides. The two holes in the kidney panel allow for two height settings.

My traveller has a single 1/4 BSF round head slotted screw each side - it looks like original fitment. You can use pop rivets but you will have to drill them out if you ever need the parcel shelf out in future.

26a looks shallower in the picture?? Its listed for cars after chassis No 1082284.

[katy]

My traveller has a single 1/4 BSF round head slotted screw each side

The one remaining bracket has (what appears to be a 1/4") an anchor nut on it. I think I'll tap it out to 1/4-24 UNF and put a similiar nut on the new bracket on the other side.
I found the line of holes that taupe referred to.
I take it that the tray is fastened directly to the bulkhead w/out any brackets?

[mike.perry]

The bulkhead edge of the parcel shelf folds along the crease line but does it fold up or down?
My previous shelf was secured along the bulkhead by nuts and bolts with a square supporting plate behind each bolt.
The studs were securing the sound proofing which I am also replacing

[MarkyB]

Almost certain it is down.
I'd be using metal or plastic trim clips rather than pop rivets though.

[Sidney'61]

I fastened mine at the back with split pins, seems to do the trick and would be easy to remove if necessary.

[mike.perry]

I would still like to know how to secure the front of the shelf to the bar.

[taupe]

Mike

I think it varies!

My traveller has the board under the angle and is secured with copper rivets like those used on brake linings but with a low profile domed top, the rivets also go through and secure the fleck covering, I would guess they are 1/8".

At the bulkhead the shelf turns downwards.

I have a spare later black tray and this has stubby self tap screws through the angle and into the millboard from the top.

Further to my earlier post Ive just checked the car and tray and notice that the bulkhead fixings are in fact a mixture of bifrucated rivets and stubby self tap screws

Also Ive checked the thread on the side fixing screw which is definately BSF on mine but has a cross head not slotted - so that was two bits of duff info in one post

I suspect there were as many variations on fixings as there were parcel shelf types!

[mike.perry]

I think that if I use a spatula or similar then I can lever the shelf between the bar and the padding, fix a nut and bolt at each end then turn it over and drill and pop rivet the rest of the holes. Well that's the theory!

[MarkyB]

I'd suggest using a washer that the pop rivet will fit through above the cardboard.
There is nothing for the pop rivet to hold otherwise. I'm sure the won't grip onto the shelf for long and would be a nightmare to remove if they don't.

[mike.perry]

I intend using washers on the pop rivets