Traveller timber

[57traveller]

There was quite a long thread previously on Traveller timber treatment etc. Unfortunately I can't find it!
I have made a start on mine, all last weekend now down to bare timber and treated with clear Cuprinol. Waiting now for this to dry, I've been told at least a week before using top coats.
I'm going to use Burgess Wood Sealer and Top Gloss. (Foreman & others use this) For anyone contemplating this task and wanting to use Burgess, their contact details are - Burgess Chemicals Ltd., The Shipyard, Ramsey, Isle of Man, IM8 3DT. Tel. 01624 815805. website www.woodsealer.co.uk It can be purchased direct from them. ESM also sell it.

[Kevin]

Just one thing 57 make sure you use the proper type of varnish brush as it leaves a much better finish.

[57traveller]

Thanks Kevin, yes you are 100% right. I have purchased a brush for varnish, higher bristle density than a conventional paint brush, I believe.
There is a recommendation to do just that on the Burgess Top Gloss container. Because it dries quickly there is less chance of any air bubbles dispersing and also not to brush too much and encourage air bubbles.
Strange stuff being water based, also the Top Gloss has the appearance and consistency of milk in spite of being a clear varnish!!!!

[Kevin]

also the Top Gloss has the appearance and consistency of milk in spite of being a clear varnish!!!!

Just like the Dulux version I used, I was also told to use a reasonable size paint kettle (6" I think) to help reduce the air bubble problem, still found it a pain though but its the only way to get a good finish.

[57traveller]

I remember you mentioning the Dulux in that past thread Kevin. Also about contacting a Dulux centre. It must be a very similar product to the Burgess, which, incidentaly, comes in a narrow necked, screw top container with which it is more or less obligatory to use a paint kettle or similar.
Must get the car outside, weather permitting, that Cuprinol is taking ages to dry.

[Kevin]

that Cuprinol is taking ages to dry.

At least you must have got a good amount into the wood 57, which can only be a good thing

[simmitc]

I like the Burgess stuff as you can apply the base coat even when the timber is damp, and it dries very quickly. I first found it when "varnishing" the wood on the boat, and always get it from my yacht chandler. BUT there is one big disadvantage for the Travellers - it is NOT resistant to petrol, so be VERY careful not to spill any when filling up; or do what I did, and use it for most of the wood, just using a more conventional finish near the petrol cap - you can't really see any difference.

[Kevin]

you can apply the base coat even when the timber is damp, and it dries very quickly.

Would that not be sealing in the damp rather than letting it dry out naturally.

[57traveller]

Not according to the Burgess information/instructions Kevin, it's acceptable and will have no adverse results. However, I'd rather it was dry personally. Also it's acceptable to apply a second coat before the first or previous dries. That's for the wood sealer/base coat by the way.
They do say that for the top gloss (if used) it is better applied to dry surface but if wet and it dries to a "cloudy" finish similar to conventional varnishes then over time this will disappear and revert to gloss unlike other varnish. Strange stuff.

[ColinP]

A good quality yacht varnish is actually slightly porous - it will allow the wood to lose/gain water slightly. If it doesn't breath, then you end up with the varnish blistering away from the wood.

I found this using polyurathene yacht varnish on a sailing dinghy. A nice tough finish, until it chips, then the damp causes large areas to lift away!

One consequence of the wood breathing is that it will swell and shrink, so that the varnish has to be a little flexible - that's got to be a good thing on a car as well.

Also, my favourite woody link

http://www.wessex-resins.com/westsystem ... irit7.html

Colin