Pick up Restoration (Part 2)

[chickenjohn]

Pull the gasket off and have a closer look at the no1 bore. Is that rust at the top of the bore or is it crud on the gasket/ block?? Those bores don't look bad, apart from no 1 cylinder, check carefully for rust, scoring and a lip at the top of the cylinder.

[davidmiles]

After a bit of bailing and as John suggested, a quick removal of the copper gasket, the true state of the top of the bores could be better seen. There appears to be some blackened crud on small areas of some of the cylinder tops. Not so sure that the right hand cylinder is still a snug fit. Still can't crank it over, so more investigation and stripping needed.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

The valve bottoms vary in their state, looking at the bottom of the cylinder head, more later on, its the 2nd England game, got some beer to get sorted, come on England![frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

Before any cleaning up of the cylinder block can be completed, the sump drain plug was screwed off and the sump allowed to drain into a suitable container. 2 litres of black orrible old oil later, and its still dripping, I'll leave this over the weekend to drain off.[frame][/frame]

[ptitterington]

Best forget about the footy and work on the pickup as it is far more satisfying. The England team are relaxing tonight having a few drinks and watching 'out of Africa' on the telly. Overpaid Ar**ho*les who cant even sing the national anthem. (next time watch the rugby boys sing, they sing as if their life depends on it.................end of rant)

[davidmiles]

I'm rapidly changing my allegance from football to rugby. Made some progress on the engine today. Starting by the removal of the clutch pressure plate and the flywheel.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

the rear plate unbolted and needed to be tapped off gently with a hammer. You can hear the hammer tapping note change as the plate comes free.
[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

The water pump came off next, unfortunatley it didn't come off quite as I had hoped, one bolt sheared and the edge of the casting broke off over one of the studs. The waterways looked clogged up with grot and a general accumulation of debris.
[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

after all that I had another try at turning the crank as the cylinders moved a fraction when I unbolted the flywheel, low and behold, the crank managed a half revolution, the cylinders moved smoothly up and down the bores, only half a turn though, it jammed either side of the rotation. Still, an improvment over no movement at all, I was begining to worry that the whole lot had seized up. In this shot you can see the two middle cylinders at the top.
[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

Does anyone think I'll have a problem getting these components sand blasted.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

and this while I'm at it, Ive got to get the wheels sandblasted so I might as well get a few components done at the same time.[frame][/frame]

[jonathon]

Get the engine acid dipped to clear the oil and waterways, be careful of 'hardened ' surfaces which have been wrecked by the rust, I'd replace these parts with good or new ones.

[aupickup]

THE BLOCK WOULD CERTAINLY NEED FLUSHING THROUGH , I WOULD TAKE IT TO AN ENGINEER SHOP AND HAVE THE BLOCK CHECKED

also a new clutch would be in order, i think personally i would get another engine

[les]

It may come to that, but what a result if it was saved after all that time standing idle!

[chickenjohn]

I would get a new clutch, but try soaking the flywheel and backplate in 5% citric acid solution overnight. All the rust will be gone!

I would also lay the engine on its side, remove the sump and have a look at the innards.

I agree with Marky below- strip the engine and check for worn parts. It should be re-buildable.

[MarkyB]

Wouldn't bother getting the old clutch sand blasted.
Given how nasty the engine looked from the outside, it doesn't seem too bad at all inside.
Can't see any reason not to rebuild it, at least you know what you have then.
If it turns out to be the original engine, it's a bonus.

[davidmiles]

thanks guys, I decided to flush out the water passages of the engine with a garden hose at full pelt, I left the spanner I had attached to the front, gave that a turn and it gave full rotation this time, the pistons move smoothly all the way round and at the same point in the rotation there is a quiet and muffled plop/clunk, sounds like its coming from deep inside, I'll need to get the sump off, as has been said, and give it a check over, but so far I have every intention of trying to save it[frame][/frame]

[pfgiz]

David, you never fail to make me smile. The level of work, your attention to detail and the speed at which your doing this are amazing. Are you going to the National? could be a good source for some of the bits you need, but it is a bit of a trek from Sussex...
Best of luck with the engine, like has been said before, if you strip it totally and rebuild you'll know exactly what's been done and how. Buying in a replacement is a bit hit and mis and is something a few on here have come a cropper over recently with engines that have been described through rose tinted glasses.
Good luck and keep us all posted.

[davidmiles]

yes pfgiz I agree, I purchased a chassis of that ilk on this very site, I'll stick to what I have, and what I know, for the time being anyway. the old farmer that gave me this original pickup told me the mechanicals were all in good condition ( personally I think he's got selective memory) when the chassis broke in half. He pushed it to one side with the intention of re welding the chassis up, but it stayed there, and hadn't moved since the 80's.
This morning I managed to get the sump off. With all that metalwork removed it is very light and I was able to lift it by myself onto my sturdy workbench. With the sump off I cranked it over and listened for my clunk/plop... nothing.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

Now I think it was just the suction noise from the cylinders, but the front pulley wheel is well distorted, whatever did the denting in of the underside of the original radiator, did this flywheel too, it catches on the metal bracket as it rotates, so that is definate for renewal, I think the crank components just need a good cleanup.[frame][/frame]