Questions on doors, chassis legs, underseal, welding...

[Fingolfin]

Hello all. Wanted to pick your brains for information...

First. There are important finisher screws, I think four of them, on top of the window frame on the doors (I have a '59 two door, if it matters). I'm missing a few and can't get them matched, and can't seem to find them on BM or ESM. Have I missed something? What's the length/size/thread count of those? Same questions about the three bolts that secure the back end of the window frame to the door -- the ones covered by rubber grommets, that go in the butt of the door.

Second. I want to order a new chassis leg, but the picture from ESM shows it doesn't have the little triangular section on top (that goes under the steering gear). I think BM has no photo. My triangle is in poor repair. Can a new one be fabricated easily, or have I missed the part at the suppliers?

Third. I have lots of original underseal peeling off all around my Mog. The metal underneath is all right, but it rapidly rusts once the seal is gone. I've got too much rust on the car already to deal with more forming. So is there a particular process and favorite types of underseal to use, or am I all right just priming and spraying with spray-can underseal? Should there be several coats or just one?

Fourth. My door handle pulls well, and the door opens (so the mechanism is okay), but the handle doesn't spring back. Instead it settles in about halfway to the door from full-pull. Have I forgotten a spring in reassembly? What can I do to make it springier?

Fifth. Lots of people on here undertake their own welding, even for major body components, such as chassis legs and center crossmembers (both of which I'm replacing). Is this only for those who know what they're doing, or is it okay for an amateur to undertake it? Is it perhaps better to have the parts placed at a frame shop equipped with proper jigs and alignment equipment?

Sixth. My electrical system is in bad shape. I've already had two shorts in the two years I've had the car. Would it be best to purchase an all-new harness/loom, or should I just repair what is already in the car? I'm an amateur with electrics, too.

Finally. What's the best method of rustproofing for the amateur without much money? Apparently Americans can't acquire this Waxoyl stuff unless they're running a garage, so don't suggest it.

Sorry for all the miscellanea, but I've gotten rather lost with all this stuff, and I figured seven different posts would be worse than one big one.

[bmcecosse]

Can only answer some of these - triangular piece I think you will need to make up yourself. Not an easy part to replace! Welding is fine - IF you can DO it! But you need to be 'accomplished' - so the weld actually penetrates the metals to be joined - not just lying on the surface! So start practicing on some scrap metal. Renewing crossmembers is not for the faint-hearted! Scrape off underseal - and treat with acid based rust killer - IF it's just surface rust. Otherwise - it must be cut out and new metal welded in. Purists don't use underseal - on the basis it traps in moisture and was not original. Anyway - you really must protect the treated surfaces with some form of primer and then paint. Up to you if you then apply underseal - I DO!! Can't believe you can't buy 'Waxoyl' - or at least a similar product. Look around!

[LouiseM]

I figured seven different posts would be worse than one big one.

Not for the moderators and other members it isn't! We try to ensure that a post is posted in the appropriate forum as it helps other members who are looking for help with a particular problem to identify a post that may help them and also keeps the messageboard 'tidier'. It is also helpful if the title of the post refers to what the problem is. There is a tendency for some people to post everything in 'general discussion' thinking that they will get a quicker reply but all they are doing is making extra work for the mods who then have to move the post!

The problem with a post containing 7 different queries ranging from bodywork, electrical and 'other' is that you are likely to end up with a very long thread but with answers to different queries mixed up making it harder for someone with the same query to quickly identify what the answer is.

Anyway, just some advice for the future but as your post refers to mainly bodywork questions I'll move it there

[Fingolfin]

Hahaha! I've been wrong in the past. My thanks to you, Louise. I'll keep that in mind for future posts. Shall I redo the title of the topic to be more descriptive? Think I shall.

Great info, BMC! I'll definitely be applying underseal -- I'm a purist, but not when it compromises safety/future structural integrity. I think underseal will guard against future moisture! I'll also go looking for rustproofing products...is it best to use a wax-based solution like Waxoyl, or should it be oil-based? I've read some little about both in Lindsay Porter's book.

[aupickup]

my car has the original zeibart underseal and kept the floors in very good condition after all these years

i would not be taking mine off

[Fingolfin]

That's the thing, Au -- my underseal's already falling off in chunks!

[aupickup]

ah ok if its falling off then it would be best to take it all off

[chickenjohn]

Hello Fingolfin,
I will attempt to make some helpful suggestions in response to your questions:-

1) the screws, these are the chrome ones? You could try phoning or e-mailling BM/ ESM as these guys also have a number of 2nd hand parts for sale from broken cars that are not listed on their online shops. They might be able to get some of these screws, or at least tell you what thread size they are.
Or, another idea- try contacting the US guru of all things Minor in the states, Randoph Williams. He may have some or know where to get them over your side of the pond.

2) Show us some pictures of the rust damage above the chassis leg!

3) If the underbody sealant is coming off I do this :-
a) Wire brush (on grinder/drill) combinded with 10% phosphoric acid treatment to remove any rust. Remove underseal with hot air gun/scraper, wipe off underseal residue with parrafin/ rag.
b) Zinc prime the clean metal (2 coats)
c) Seam seal any welds or seams
d) Apply antistone chip paint to any high impact areas (under the wings (fenders in American) spring hangers etc)
e) two coats of chassis black paint
f) finally apply the underbody wax. You can get Dinitrol from ESM or Frost via their online shops. Once all welding is done it is also vital to spray cavity wax inside all the box sections to protect from further rusting from the inside.

4) Not sure!

5) You can do your own welding- but please if you are a beginner go on a welding or restoration course or get someone experienced in restoration to teach you. Also have a look at the tutorials in this excellent website. http://www.mig-welding.co.uk/mig.htm
Plenty of folk on here have learnt to weld and fabricate repair sections and made an excellent job of restoring their cars, so it is possible. Lots of learning of the technique and practise to get skilled are needed though before starting on your car.

6) If an amateur with electronics and your loom is in a bad way, easiest/safest way forward for you is to get a complete new loom for your Minor (BM/ESM etc). Not that cheap an option but should solve all your dodgy wiring problems.

7) See 3f) above.

hope those suggestions were of some help.