removing front shock arm.

[libbor]

Hi all

Has anyone had any success in removing the lever arm from the front armstrongs?

If yes, how did you do it?

Cheers

Darren

[aupickup]

no, theymay need a special press to get the arms off

can we ask why you want to take them off anyway

[libbor]

Hi, i am wanting to replace my shock and can only get rh shocks. Although the valve will face the wrong way, i was hoping to fit a rh shock to left side and change the arm over.

Cheers

Darren

[Simon P]

If you know anybody with a drop arm puller you could borrow that would take it off,
I have a pair of snap-on CJ150B drop arm pullers here, you'r welcome to borrow one if your local?

HTH
Si[frame][/frame]

[alex_holden]

Hi, i am wanting to replace my shock and can only get rh shocks. Although the valve will face the wrong way, i was hoping to fit a rh shock to left side and change the arm over.

Don't they have more resistance in one direction than the other?

[bmcecosse]

As Alex says - that won't work! They are designed to work one way round only! What's wrong with your dampers anyway? And - I have tried and tried in the past to pull an arm off - with not the slightest success!

[timmo]

IF, you have a spare castle nut...i need one

[bmcecosse]

I wouldn't worry about that nut - there is not a chance in hell of the arm coming off!

[alex_holden]

I wouldn't worry about that nut - there is not a chance in hell of the arm coming off!

I think that's dangerous advice. Definitely don't drive the car with the nut missing.

[bmcecosse]

It was meant to be 'tongue in cheek' - although having spent a good while trying to shift an arm - I really do doubt it will come off in service.

[libbor]

Hi All, they don't seem to have any difference in resistance up or down. I know the valve will be the wrong way but I can live with that. The shocks I have both have end float. They don't rattle when they are cold but as they warm up the oil must get thinner. This in turn allows the oil to be able to be squashed out from where the welch plug is and then they start to knock. I can lift the car up and grab the swivel and literally move the swivel from front to back watching the arm move in and out of the shock. I have shoved a shim down inside the shock to stop the end float and the rattle is gone but of coarse that is only a temporary measure.

Those arms must come off somehow. Maybe my new ones will be easier.

Any other thoughts will be most appreciatted.

Darren

[alex_holden]

ESM claim to have both sides in stock:
http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/adv ... onditioned

You might lose the exchange fee though if your old ones are as badly worn as you say. Perhaps worth asking them on the phone if they will accept them in that condition before spending money on postage.

[jaguar68]

Buy some replacement ones, even if you don't exchange the old one they are reasonably cheap. Your idea to remove the arms leads to madness and quite possibly catastophic failure.

[bmcecosse]

[jaguar68]

The arms are either a good interference fit keyed to the shaft or on a shallow taper again keyed to the shaft in order to locate them in the correct position. The madness is in the wasted time and effort for potentially little gain. Should the damper fail in some way in the future your insurance is bound to be invalidated.

Refurbished dampers are £16.95 with a £20 surcharge at ESM, and has been posted before both sides are available.

BTW I have no personal involvement with ESM other than being a satisfied customer

Regards

John

[bmcecosse]

It's ok Jag - I was completely 'agreeing' with you sentiments! The rolling eyes are for the 'madness' and 'catastrophic failure'!

[jaguar68]

Hi BMC, just thought things needed clarifying for the "non-engineers" in morris minor land

Regards

John