SPL chemical dipping Vs Lead loading

[RobThomas]

Has anyone had their car dipped and coated? If so, does the chem dip remove lead loading or can it be left on and then the coating added on afterwards?

Thanks

Rob

[Ian46]

Hi Rob,

I have 'dipped' a Minor at SPL and the process is excellent if a little pricy. Everything goes - the paint, rust and unfortunately all the lead. It is the ultimate bare metal strip. I did it before welding and repairs and if doing it again would repair first then strip and coat. The coating will have to be removed where the lead loading has to be reinstated.

I could post before and after pictures.

HTH - Ian

[jonathon]

A few pointers re dipping, the stripping process is brilliant as it removes all material except the original steel. The lead will disappear too. You need to drill about 50 holes in the structure to eliminate trapping air when the car is submerged.
My opinion is that if you go this route then you must get the car E coated afterwards, spraying with etch or primer may save exposed surfaces but the car will be rusting from the inside from the minute it leaves the acid tank. No rust prevention except E coat will cover the internal surfaces.
We have had about 6 cars sent to SPL, mostly with good results, but several short comings have surfaced and we have had to return one shell to be re done.
I firmly believe that its the most thorough method of rust removal available and with the E coat and immediate sealing of joints represents good value for money. However expect to be shocked at the results of stripping which can reveal a Minor riddled with rust holes,thin steel and evidence of poor repairs. It is however the worst your car will ever get.

[pgc520]

Rob,

The process is excellent, but you will have to have the joints reloaded with lead. hopefully you can see the finished result.[frame][/frame]

[RobThomas]

Thanks, guys. The more info/pic, the better. I've been a bit brutal in cutting back to good metal but still have only found 2 small patches of weakened and thinned steel. I'm hoping that I can get the dip and coat done in just the one visit.
If the area isn't leaded again, what is the next best material or brand of filler to use? I only wanted to do the job the once!

[jonathon]

Rob, you can visit SPL when the car has been acid dipped to see if there will be any further welding/repairs to be done, before E coating. If you need to do some work then the re dip once you are finished is about £300 more.
Modern fillers are excellent now, if price is not an issue then go for Plastic Padding, its a very smooth filler which minimises the danger of trapped air. It takes more effort to flat it but its worth it in the end. If you need to save money a good product is U Pol easy sand. Once the car is 'shaped up we use a 'reface ' paint which is a polyester based product which fills small imperfections and pin holes.
One point to remember is to not etch the Ecoat as it will react, and don't etch under the 'reface'.
If you wish to go for leading then give me a ring as our new bodyman is very experienced in this field.

[RobThomas]

Bu66er! SPL might lose their E-cating facility if their 3rd-party factory closes. Not much good getting it dipped if it can't be e-coated....or is it?

[jonathon]

Definately not. There are plenty of ecoat dippers around so not doom and gloom yet