Rumble/Vibration

[Nuffles]

Hey guys, only my second post here so go easy on me please

Bought a 1967 Maroon 4door saloon Moggie on Thursday and she's been an absolute bomb so far. Definitely a very happy owner here. Slowly working my way through odd things here and there. Main problem at the moment is a rumbly vibrating noise that manifests at about 20mph, peaks in intensity at about 30mph and smoothens out but is still there right up to top end. At first I thought it was just transmission noise but it goes away when going around left hand bends, even a small kink will do it. My first thought was nearside front wheel bearing and the guys over at Young Guns Classics agreed so i jacked it up and had a play with the wheels (soon gave up on the Morris jack after 10 minutes of winding and not a lot happening Rolling Eyes so went and got a scissor jack from the garage and had it up in less than a minute) and the drivers side wheel has no play and will spin forever if you give it a shove, but the passenger side wheel has a mm or so play in it and is rubbing (I guess on one of the shoes?) and won't turn more than 4 or 5 complete turns if you give it a spin before it stops. Should I get the wheel off and back off the shoe adjusters until it spins freely? Rubbing shoe/s might be the source of the sound..? It's sort of a stiff friction, rather than a rattle/grinding that I would expect from a bearing in that bad a condition that the wheel wouldn't spin properly. Is there any way to tell if it's leading or trailing shoe so I know where to start or is it simply a case of loosen one side off two turns and see if that works, if not tighten two turns and try loosening the other one two turns and see if that does it? Planning to do this on Sunday so any help would be much appreciated

[mike.perry]

No 1 Throw the car jack away and use the scissor jack.
If you have just bought the car then it is advisable to strip the brakes down to inspect them, check that the master cylinder is full, the wheel cylinders operate correctly and the linings are in good condition, also the condition of the flexible hoses. Whilst you have the front jacked up, check and grease the front suspension. At the back, check the handbrake cables and operation and top up the rear dampers.
It is often difficult to chck the condition of wheel bearings, they might have a piece of grit in them or a small amount of play

[Nuffles]

No 1 Throw the car jack away and use the scissor jack.
If you have just bought the car then it is advisable to strip the brakes down to inspect them, check that the master cylinder is full, the wheel cylinders operate correctly and the linings are in good condition, also the condition of the flexible hoses. Whilst you have the front jacked up, check and grease the front suspension. At the back, check the handbrake cables and operation and top up the rear dampers.
It is often difficult to chck the condition of wheel bearings, they might have a piece of grit in them or a small amount of play

Forgot to add that it's had a Servo put in, if that make's any difference. It pulls up well, but for the first 10 minutes or so while the brakes are cold it pulls to the right. I'll get the front drums off too and check how everything's doing down there then. Thanks

[bmcecosse]

Use a trolley jack - NEVER use the standard jack. Don't back off shoes!!! Fix the worn wheel bearing. Brakes pulling to one side indicate a sticking cylinder - the shoe affected then heats up and 'fades' so you don't notice the pull. New cylinder - and probably new shoes required now - since that shoe (if only one) will be damaged now.

[Nuffles]

I picked up a new brake slave cylinder and one-man-bleed-kit today and replaced the dodgy cylinder today and got everything up and working, drove it and it's brilliant; doesn't pull to the right any more or anything, EXCEPT THAT THAT RUDDY NOISE IS STILL THERE!! The pulling to the right was a result of the seized cylinder on the left not pressing one of the shoes into the drum, so two shoes on one side and one on the other resulting in slight pull.



Exactly the same as it was before. I can't understand this as the drum was rubbing quite badly before and now the wheel spins freely with no resistance whatsoever but it's still making the noise when driving It's definitely connected to road speed rather than engine speed and definitely coming from the front and definitely goes away when you go around left hand bend. It gets louder on the overrun but I think that's because you can't hear the engine rather than it getting actually louder. One thing I've noticed is that it doesn't go away when you brake. This would be consistent with a seized cylinder as the shoe doesn't get any closer to the drum, but now obviously the brakes are working properly. It could be the bearing still but I would expect the noise to change under braking? There's about a mm of play in the bearing with the wheel off the ground and giving it a good up-down wobble. With the wheel off, however, there's no play feelable in the hub itself.

Since it's not a brake problem it's been put down the bottom of the priority list to wait until I've been paid when I can pick up a new bearing kit. Do bearing kits come with both the inner and outer bearings or just one? Do both always need doing at once or does one take most of the hammering over the other? Can I drift the old bearings out of the hub with a hammer and screw driver and then press the new ones in with a bench vice?

Sorry for so many questions

[aupickup]

check all the suspension and trunnions especially the bottom ones

[bmcecosse]

If you have play - but the bearing seems ok with the wheel off - then look urgently at the trunnions. The noise could be from a rear wheel....... But one easy way to test the fronts is to swap the hubs left to right - does the 'rumble' follow the hub ??