Horn contact

Post by **Chris Morley** » Fri Jan 31, 2003 10:42 pm

Soon after buying my Minor I noticed that the horn didn't work when the steering wheel was near dead centre. Annoyingly, the horn button disintegrated when I tried to fix the problem

so I simply spliced the wires and added a 'temporary' switch. 3 years later I've finally got a genuine replacement horn button.

I assume there is a sliding electrical contact on the steering column which has worn away. Does anyone know if this is available new as a replacement part, or will I have to find another steering column and mix 'n' match?

Post by **Cam** » Fri Jan 31, 2003 11:25 pm

The Horn centre pops out of the wheel, so that you have access to the wheel securing nut.

There is a spring with a contact on the end in the middle. The horn mechanism then shorts this to the wheel outer (earth) to make the contact.

If you cannot see the large retaining nut in the centre then you need to remove more broken parts.

All this is assuming that you have a later 2-spoke black 'safety wheel' - I cannot comment on the earlier types, as I have never had them apart.

hope this helps.

olonas · Post by **olonas** » Sat Feb 01, 2003 9:55 am

My cars both have three spoked wheel, each spoke comprised of 4 straight wires. The horn push is secured by a 2BA (I think) screw on the underside of the boss when in ahead position. There is a spring loaded push on the column which operated when the horn is operated and a flat contact which "rubs" on a brass ring as the wheel turns, to make the earth return. The brass slip ring is in segments.

Post by **newagetraveller** » Sat Feb 01, 2003 12:40 pm

(As far as I can remember) the sliding contact on the steering column is part of the indicator switch.

To get at it you need to take off the steering wheel and remove the cover that goes over the switch. This cover is held on by three screws.
(Alternatively, if you are desperate, you can just break the cover off with a big screwdriver and then stick it back on again!)

The contact consists of a piece of springy brass with one end connected to the switch and a small copper block riveted to the other end, which rubs against the steering column. Sometimes the copper falls off and you are just left with the springy brass rubbing against the column. It is possible to repair it by soldering a suitable piece of copper onto the brass strip (if you have a large enough soldering iron.)

Post by **rayofleamington** » Sat Feb 01, 2003 1:25 pm

Hi Chris,
Gayle's Minor has just developed the same fault! (probably when I was messing about with the collumn last weekend

)
There is a new indicator switch assembly on e-bay which has had a lot of interest.

http://cgi.ebay.co.uk/ws/eBayISAPI.dll? ... 45146&rd=1

It is now £21 + p&p, and I was hoping to get it for less so I'll try to repair mine as suggested by new-age.
If you see this before 5pm, feel free to chase that one on e-bay.

[For the e-bay item you can't see the horn connection on the photo but it is there - I checked with him a few days ago]

Post by **Chris Morley** » Sat Feb 01, 2003 3:53 pm

Thanks to all for the advice . I've got the later 2-spoke wheel and I've driven around for nearly 3 years with the steering wheel nut exposed. The body of the old horn switch is long gone but I kept the spring and 'M' motif cap. I've just been offered a spare wheel + column with the button and indicator switch intact so I might try and swap the whole lot. If that doesn't work I'll take the spare apart carefully using newagetraveller's information.

The E-Bay 'new' (old stock) indicator switch assembly costs a lot more than £21 new from specialists so it's worth bidding if you are willing to take the risk that it is still fully functioning.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Sat Feb 01, 2003 6:24 pm

Hi Chris,
If youve not done a column before, heres some hints:
The old column will only come off at the rack end when the clamp bolt is fully removed.
When you fit the new column (or parts from it) you'll need to make sure that the 'self-cancel' stud is aligned with the tags on the indicator switch, which involves getting the horn push out to get the steering wheel + plastic shroud off.
Then you need to make sure the column is on the correct spline on the rack so the stud is central to the tags.
After that you need to move the outer column sleeve axially in the clamp, until the tags are lined up with the stud on the shaft.
With the plastic shroud off you'll see what needs to line up with what so it is pretty straightforward.

If you have a volt meter, first make sure that the slip ring on the shaft makes a circuit to the wire sticking out under the horn push (or use a battery and bulb to check it). Also check that the wire is not short circuit to the column otherwise the horn will stay on rather than just when you press the switch.

Also, thanks guys for the hints on socket size. I picked one up from Halfords today.

I bid on the switch on e-bay in the end, but got outbid 7 seconds from the end. I guess I really was meant to repair my horn connector!