Help. pulley nut

Post by **jbennett** » Sat Jun 12, 2004 6:34 am

I am hoping to change the timing chain on my '57 saloon, but can't get past the nut holding the crank pulley on. It's stuck fast and all the little tricks I've been told won't budge it. The lock tabs are bent back, I've got it in gear, bashed the nut a few times to free any stickyness up, used CRC, and it is still stuck so hard, that when I turn it, it wants to move the car with it, hand brake on and all!
Help! any hints on how to get it off so I can get at the timing cover etc.

Post by **Alec** » Sat Jun 12, 2004 7:38 am

Hello JB,
preferably with a good strong ring spanner, in top gear, handbrake on and hit the spanner hard with a heavy hammer. This will usually shock the nut free. Alternatively with a socket and breaker bar or tee bar, and a 3 ft or so piece of pipe, again, snatch at it to give a shock effect.
There is also the starter motor method, which I have never tried as the above has always worked for me, which entails jamming the spanner against the chassis rail and turn the motor over with the starter motor. Just ensure that the coil is disconnected!!.
By the way it doesn't matter if the tab washer is undone or not with the above, it is not that strong.

Good luck,

Alec

Post by **dennis** » Sat Jun 12, 2004 8:58 am

i had to use the starter motor method, came undone on the 2nd attempt

Post by **winger300** » Sat Jun 12, 2004 10:47 am

it was suggested in minor matters that you took it to a local garage, where they could remove it using an air-tool. Then tighten it back on by hand, and drive it home.

Post by **dennis** » Sat Jun 12, 2004 1:07 pm

yes that can do it to, if you can find a friendly guy to do it.

Post by **rayofleamington** » Sat Jun 12, 2004 3:13 pm

Air impact wrenches can be picked up on e-bay and othe rplaces quite cheap.

You can also get 12V versions but I don't know if they're powerfull enough for a serious job like the strarter dog - they are powerfull enough for the guys who nick wheels though

Post by **Cam** » Sat Jun 12, 2004 4:01 pm

I have never done it with the engine in situ....... Just out of interest though the best method that works for me is to lie the engine on it's side with a helper standing on it (head end) then jam the head of an axle stand into the flywheel ring gear to stop it turning and use a good quality breaker bar or rachet (that you don't mind whacking) with a well fitting socket and a BIG hammer. Usually comes undone with the 1st or 2nd whack. Like Alec says, shocking it really helps undo it, as it does with other nuts/bolts.

I have always wondered what the best method for removal 'in car' would be. I think I would try and jam something against the flywheel ring gear to stop it turning (as well as it being in top gear etc).

I don't know how the 'driving to a garage to get it undone' would work as the front panel would have to be off to gain access and the rad would be flapping about?? But I suppose you could always disassemble it when you got there.

Post by **jbennett** » Sun Jun 13, 2004 7:57 am

I finally got it off. A large spanner, a large hammer and on bash number 13 it came free. This was done with engine in car by the way, and after I decided to leave it for the night (frayed patience and all).

Post by **Alec** » Sun Jun 13, 2004 8:22 am

Hello JB,
progress anyway; there is not too much room to get a good swing, a 4lb lump hammer would probably be ideal. By the way, a copper hammer is usefull for preventing damage but I found out many years ago, it does not deliver the power a steel hammer of equivelant weight does.
I also agree that an impact spanner would not be accessible with the engine in situ.

Alec

Post by **mupwi** » Sat Apr 02, 2005 8:13 pm

I tried the starter method and broke my spaner . finaly got it off by taking the starter moter out and wedging the ring gear through that hole then shocked is of with another spaner and a 4lb hamer