cant get in gear

[hotrodder13]

well got it out of the garage but now i can get it in gear, tryed all the gears and it just wornt go in, i can get in reverse but then it just jumps back and the engine dies do i need a new clutch i read some were that you need to weld a piece of metal onto the clutch shaft is this true


also there is a lot of oil coming out of the back of the engine would fitting this help
http://morrisminorspares.co.uk/shop/pro ... 984f41e12c
thanks tom

[MikeHA4]

I'd try with the engine stopped. Once in a gear, it shouldn't be possible to push the car. You may need to rock the car gently to get gear engagement which will lead to the next point. Depress the clutch fully. If it is just as difficult to push with a depressed clutch pedal, then the clutch isn't disengaging. Check adjustment.

[aupickup]

the crank rear seal is a lot of work to do, its not jsut a bolt on job

check your breathing systen on the engine as this leads to oil coming out of the rear seal

[hotrodder13]

try your idea about the cluch as it is just as hard tryed adjusting but still the same and i think i forgot a hose going on the the breather on the fron of the timing cover so ill put that onto the carb and try it

tom

[MikeHA4]

Oh, Tom, you do need to be able to engage a gear with the engine NOT running and clutch pedal fully depressed (disengaged) even by possibly gently rocking the car back and forth. If you have to rock it to get a gear in, then it isn't possible to push the car any more, it suggests the clutch is remaining engaged. Problem with linkage, hopefully, worse is internal problem with clutch mechanism.
Mike

[hotrodder13]

i got it in gear with the engine off and i did have to rock it, it then the car wouldnt move so i pressed the clutch and still could not move it, ill get my dad to have a look

thanks tom

[kittyfell]

Obviously the clutch is not disengaging. What clutch assembly have you used on the 1275 engine ? I amazed that oil is coming out the rear bearing and you are only idling the engine ? While it's idling take the oil filler cap off. If there is a plume of fume then the piston rings are passing badly.

[hotrodder13]

i used my 1098cc clutch which didnt look to bad, ill try the oil cap thing but it was when i took it for a drive it started ok then it would get in gear but after the 2 min drive couldnt get in gear and then the oil started to leak

[kittyfell]

Hmmm. So is that 1098 clutch and flywheel you used? Strange it would drive/change gear at first then failed. Is there any 'free play on the clutch pedal?

[hotrodder13]

dosent seem to be but when i put my foor on it it goes to the floor could it hav been adjusted the wrong way also when it gets close to the floor it makes a noise like its hitting something under the floor its at the same point each time i press it when running,

[kittyfell]

Take the rubber bungs out the side of the bellhousing and peer inside with a good torch to see if the clutch springs have come loose or the carbon thrust pad has somehow come loose.

[MikeHA4]

If this situation has arisen on the first 'journey' after fitting the engine in, I wonder if the adjustment has 'come adrift' after the first few uses which put it under strain. If so, you need only to adjust the clutch up properly and secure the adjusters so they don't come undone. I haven't studied a Minor clutch - I can only think of a Triumph transmission and my current peugeot! Anyway, theres usually a flat operating lever on the clutch housing where the cable attaches. If your clutch pedal has no 'feel' as you depress it, then that indicates it isn't trying to operate the mechanism. If the clutch operating lever is moving and there's no resistance in that, the snag is internal. Good luck...

[kittyfell]

No 'cable' on a Minor. It's done by a system of levers........

[hotrodder13]

it is t5he big bung on the passenger side ive not got a torch so ill have a look later, but if it is that the engine will have to come out again

[kittyfell]

Two bungs - one where the lever enters and one on tother side where a LHD lever would go.

[hotrodder13]

well i decided to take the engine and gear box out only took a couple of hours, but ill have to upload some piks 2moro cant see why it go in gear. was a bit worn but that noise i heard was the thrust bearing pressing on then next bit the that was rubbing on the 4 studs on the pressure plate. dont know why it would so gona get a complete clutch kit

another week till i can drive again

[MikeHA4]

Oh dear. Well, all you can do is examine it all to check things fit and 'actuate' and if they won't or can't, establish why and what to do about it. There is another thread on here where pictures showed the release bush and three separate springs that weren't locating properly. I believe they disassembled that to get it right. All the best for now, then!

[hotrodder13]

ill have to look for that the clutch worked perfect with the 1098 in

[bmcecosse]

The odd thing is - you say it worked ok at first ? And then stopped working ?? Seems strange - unless you can find something has come loose. So - it's a 1098 flywheel and clutch modified and fitted to a 1275 engine, OR is it a 1275 Spridget clutch and flywheel ?? If so - does it not require a thinner carbon release bearing ?

[mike.perry]

Have you done the silly thing of fitting the clutch forks the wrong way round so that when you press the clutch pedal the thrust bearing drops off? I made that mistake once, I was not happy about having to take the gearbox out again
If you have a 1098 clutch and flywheel then you must have drilled extra flywheel fixing holes. If you have used a Midget clutch and flywheel then you can use the 1098 thrust but you need to modify the relay shaft.