Ex Flasher Seeks Blinking Genius

Post by **Matt** » Thu May 27, 2004 11:44 am

True........

Post by **Kevin** » Thu May 27, 2004 12:47 pm

Juggling doesn't get any harder than that!

Pete are your kids teenagers yet because thats when your time is not your own at all or is that the stage you are already at, if so I cannot give you enough sympathy.

Post by **Matt** » Thu May 27, 2004 12:50 pm

My dad loves me having a project car

Dad, can you help me do this.......

Post by **Kevin** » Thu May 27, 2004 12:53 pm

Dad, can you help me do this.......

With 2 of you at Uni is probably the only thing that does not cost him any money.

Post by **Matt** » Thu May 27, 2004 1:12 pm

just think, my sister will be at uni as soon as we finish!!

Post by **Peetee** » Mon May 31, 2004 11:01 pm

Right, I've had a good look at it and think I can see what's wrong. There is no live feed to the remote indicator bulb on the dash or the flasher relay. The relay has 4 connectors two of which are wired to earth, one via the bulb. the other two connectors are wired in together with a chocolate block. The wiring to the steering colomn has been cut at some time in the past and reconnected with a 'chocolate block'. My best guess is that the live green wire feed from this should connect via the two free wires from the flasher relay. Does that sound about right?
I'm quite happy sending an e-mail with a good diagram to anyone who thinks they can solve this for me.
Cheers.

Post by **Peetee** » Mon May 31, 2004 11:01 pm

Right, I've had a good look at it and think I can see what's wrong. There is no live feed to the remote indicator bulb on the dash or the flasher relay. The relay has 4 connectors two of which are wired to earth, one via the bulb. the other two connectors are wired in together with a chocolate block. The wiring to the steering colomn has been cut at some time in the past and reconnected with a 'chocolate block'. Given that the only cut down wires are the cut area of the wiring to the colomn and the two green wires from the relay, my best guess is that the live green 'common' wire feed from the indicator switch should connect via the two free wires from the flasher relay. Does that sound about right?
I'm quite happy sending an e-mail with a good diagram to anyone who thinks they can solve this for me.
Cheers.

Post by **Willie** » Tue Jun 01, 2004 7:21 pm

PETEE.. came on this a bit late but, if your indicators do not flash
any more but just stay ON then your bi-metal bit isn't working,full stop.
If you haven't found the flasher unit yet then perhaps you could get
someone to operate the indicator while you listen for the 'click'. I
would guess that the lack of a pilot light is a by product of the faulty
flasher unit. The only other condition which would stop the unit
from flashing is, of course, if you are using too low a wattage of
indicator bulbs so that the load is not enough for the bi metal
arrangement to work. I suppose you haven't just fitted a cheap
job lot of 6 watt bulbs!!! I owe you an apology re the convertible
side windows. I got mixed up with my saloon and my convertible re
changing the rubbers....of course the screws have to be undone to
change the rubbers! If you wish to send me your wiring diagram
I'll do my best. You mention a 'flasher relay' do you mean a
RELAY (non standard) or a flasher unit? (three connections, not four)

Post by **Peetee** » Tue Jun 01, 2004 7:38 pm

Willie, see the post before yours, it explains the situation best. The whole arrangement appears to be non-standard and I think at some time in the past the owner has resorted to cutting the wiring to the colomn to wire in a non standard horn push - hence the choccy block connectors (presumably the steering boss failed to do the job)(but thats another story). Basically nothig has been removed or replaced, just somewhere along the line the connections have been swapped so the relay and bulb no longer operate.

Post by **Peetee** » Tue Jun 08, 2004 9:48 pm

I've solved the problem now. But found another (aint dat de troot).
The front left hand flasher base is corroded and, true to form (according to the Law of Sod), works when you pop it out of the bodywork but not when you pop it back in