Jacking points

[NOEL]

can anyone advise on front and rear jacking points? I want to use either my bottle jack or a trolley jack then use axle stands to help support the weight, I don`t wish to use the standard jack point althogh the floor condition is quite good, a friend told me to use the axle across the rear section, is this recommended ?[frame][/frame]

[bmcecosse]

At the rear -jack under the spring pans - or under the diff if you want both rear wheels up - but it's a bit unstable! At the front - jack under the join between chassis legs and front X member. ideally - you want TWO trolley jacks. Never ever even think about using the provided jacking points - that jack is purely for show.

[NOEL]

Thanks for the info, I thought the orginal point was a non starter

[mike.perry]

The problem with the original jacking points is that you are jacking up the whole weight of one side of the car on a mounting that you are relying on to be in excellent condition when on a lot of cars the crossmember outriggers are in urgent need of repair. By jacking up under the rear spring or front corner of the chassis you are only jacking the weight of one corner. I have fitted GPO van front jacking brackets to the lower suspension arms which securely locate the jack.

[cammy-p]

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[NOEL]

Good point about the wood and damage, if working at home on it I will use my trolley jack but how practical is this if you get a puncture when out and about,do members carry axle stands with them in the boot ? worst case scenario stuck in the dark, raining and nol lighting, suppose I should practice just in case![frame][/frame]

[IaininTenbury]

I wouldent ever use the cars side jacking points nor allow anyone to jack my car via them , i jack my morris using a trolly jack on the centre of the rear axle this has always been the quickest and safest option and then place axle stands at each side of the rear axle , as for the front i use my trolly jack and a small block of wood between the trolly jack and the chassis leg , jacking the car up at each corner of the front chassis , this i find has lways been the best way with no damage ...
I would not trust the morris side jack ever , it is in my mind for show , it scares me to think folk do use it ...
Better to be safe than sorry ......

I've only had a couple of cars that I've been confident enough about to use the standard jack. It does work very efficiently when all is well ie: new full sills and crossmember!
All paled into insignificence on Sun night when I had a puncture in the Series 2 convertible. The usual scissor jack I keep in the car had been borrowed for something else when the car was laid up over the winter, and I had to use the original jack. It fits onto the most rust prone area on a Minor - the bottom of the front wing where it joins the front of the sill. (Similar mount near the rear spring hanger). There were a few creaking noises and I got the spare on asap![frame][/frame]

[mike.perry]

Those piller jacks are definately just for show. I always carry a scissor jack or use the trolley jack at home.

[IaininTenbury]

Indeed. I applaude the design, I mean you can't get a simple more compact jack, but its a dreadful place to jack a Minor up.
Never used one before and you don't want to be finding out how good the front of your sills are on the roadside at midnight....

[mike.perry]

You need to smear the threads with grease for them to work properly. For some reason I have two pillar jacks with my MM, jacking up both ends of the car is definately not recommended

[cammy-p]

I

[StaffsMoggie]

Trolley jack every time. I always carry a small one in a wooden box screwed to the boot floor. It also holds the usual spares, points, plugs, hoses, fanbelt and bulbs etc. I carry a foot pump under the boot floor, with the starting handle and a tool roll, together with some jump leads.

[rayofleamington]

My trolley jack has excellent lift, but as a consequence it's far too big and bulky, not to mention heavy for the boot.

Jacking under the front at the chassis leg / crossmember joint is not what I'd recommend. The chassis leg area under the eyebolt is heavily reinforced and designed to take the car's load. I need to get a flat rubber cap for the trolley jack, so in it's absence I try and remember to use a piece of wood if jacking under a box section.

At the rear, the spring pad is a good place to jack, either with trolley jack or with a scissor jack. I've never ever had a problem using a scissor jack here as mine locates nicely between the 4 ends of the U-bolts. You only need to jack up about an inch before you can change the rear wheel.
When jacking the rear, make sure BOTH front wheels are chocked securely - even when on flat ground, just in case.

[NOEL]

Thanks for all the help, most people advise carrying a trolley jack , the downside I suppose will be it does have an impact on available space in the boot, in common with most people if you have spares like a fan belt, points and plugs etc it all adds to weight and restricts what other items you can carry. On the other hand you only need 1 puncture to make it worthwhile, so has anyone tried one of the puncture repair sprays which are available to "get you home" on a MM ?

[rayofleamington]

so has anyone tried one of the puncture repair sprays which are available to "get you home" on a MM.

I'm led to believe that these should NOT be used with inner tubes as they can undo any previous repairs. This may be old wives tails!

The can is a "temporary repair" so why wreck a tyre that could be saved otherwise?