Pick up Restoration (Part 2)

[davidmiles]

bull motif just sent on these under cab floor strengthening pieces along with a news letter about their aqusition and improvment of the midland mini centre. Fast efficient service for those guys, I fully recommend them.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

This shot with the light coming in behind them better shows the obviouse differences in the two panel designs, one at the back of the cab floor and one forward to the side, but which is which, its back to my old rusty floor shot again, so glad I took that picture ive refered back to it again and again.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

progress on the back side panel, some may scoff but I'm quite pleased with the part Ive made here. looks rough now but with some modern plastic filler to hide my joints I think it will all blend in well.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

built up in thin coats the rear light area filler is nearly ready for sanding back and profiling, I'll start with a course grade finishing with a softer grade to get that filler to a feathered edge.

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[davidmiles]

the rear panel with filler drying & awaiting sanding.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

and while thats drying I'll get on with some bits from my basket case, that is one joy of a basket case, lots of box's of bits, probably the only joy though, and thats a bit of a gamble. Here the body fittings get a clean up with the wire brush in an angle grinder.
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[mmjosh]

looking good david

[Fingolfin]

Just brilliant! You're making so much progress -- don't ever think about giving up, not until you're done! (And of course, the job of the owner of a classic car is never done. ) You're going so much faster than I was able to in the time I was home last year. We're all pulling for you! Keep supplying those photos!

[aupickup]

mind all the filler does not crack tho
the pick up sides are quite flexible

[jonathon]

Hate to mention , but most of your filler will burn off when you weld in the front and rear X members and side supports Have you seen how this structure all fits together, as you have also waxoyled the rear cross member before welding, this will catch fire.
Sorry to mention this as I tend to get the impression that you dislike professional advise.

[davidmiles]

Nothing could be further from the truth Jonathon, all advise wether from professional sources or AHAGs like myself is gratfully appreciated, I mean just look at this picture, totally J inspired, you showed me a picture just like it once. Without the help I received from all of you guys and dolls I'd be nowhere with this project, and thats what this club and website is all about isn't it? shared information back and forth. Ok you don't have to follow every piece of advice you get, some of it is conflicting and if you followed it all you'd be in a right mess, and rightly so. Throughout life we all take advice from all around and then form our own decisions when all the facts are in.
Anyway, I had to strip off the front suspencion to get the cab up like this. I forgot how many bolts there were...[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

With the underfloor support pieces in place I'll hope to irradicate the floor drumming. In this view the supports have been drilled and plug welded, the screws have been withdrawn and the screw holes welded up.

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[davidmiles]

I got these titanium drill bits from my local B&Q, great staff there I must say, all of a certain age, the guy that advised me to use these was an ex drill bit salesman, can't better that for knowledge on the subject, He said the titanium throws the heat away from the bit leaving the bit cooler to do the job, and he was right too,they went through the floor support pieces like a hot knife through butter. My ordinary bits skidded all over before glowing red hot and finally punching through.
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[davidmiles]

What a morris marathon, finally got the cab floor finished and re painted, lowered the cab back and replaced the front suspesion, I fitted the steering wheel to make it easier to roll in and out of the garage on four wheels. Just one problem left, the nut for the end of the torsion bar on the passenger side , where it emerges from the eye bolt, flatly refused to go back on. It delayed me for at least an hour, trying to get it seated. I was getting tired and had to let it stay off for the time being, Any advice from anyone. do I file the end to irradicate the bad thread, or cut and re weld a new threaded end on?[frame][/frame]

[Dean]

Is it the right size nut David? I assume you mean the pin that holds the bushes within the eye bolt? If so it's a thread thats used quite a lot but there is also a similar size used thats a different imperial thread. Even the suppliers get the two mixed up sometimes.

[davidmiles]

Oh Crikey is that all it was! I'll have to look into this with that possability in mind, Thanks Dean.

[davidmiles]

I've hit a slight snag, not quite a problem yet, but a snag that may have a simple solution. The whole point of fitting the under floor supports was in the vain attempt at irradicating the floor flexing and drumming. Sadly its still happening when you put pressure on the floor, so I put the gearbox cover in to try and add strength, but its still drumming...[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

measuring the floor to chassis gap comes out as a 12mm gap[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

its as wide as 16mm when you count the gap up to the floor at the extension piece here. Has anyone ever seen or used themselfs a wood spacer piece here to add support to the floor.
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[aupickup]

the floor may need shrinking

also there was a thick rubber pad that went over top the chassis extensions and under the floor