Pick up Restoration (Part 2)

[davidmiles]

I did fill the three small holes with weld in the end, you can't see it here but when I hold the panel up to the light I can see several annoying pin holes around these. whats the answer anyone, keep welding?[frame][/frame]

[aupickup]

pin holes mean thin metal probably, best to cut it out, and potentially the more welds the more rust can come through the welds

[linearaudio]

Regarding the filler- very expensive at Halfords. I get my "U pol" filler from a paint/refinishing supplier. HUGE 3 1/2 litre tin was around £16 the other month. You could carve an entire wing out of it economically at that price

I've been reading this thread for a while now, and biting my tongue as I don't want to appear to be knocking your work, but it appears you may be falling into the trap a lot of us AHAG's do by:
1. Not cleaning sufficient rust away.
2. Scrimping on the size of patch. If you are going to cut metal out, go well into the good metal so you don't end up with awkward jaggedy bits that you have to fill with weld/filler.

Please don't be offended by the observations, you are doing very well and obviously getting the hang of the welder! I remember many occasions in the past when I have ended up welding extension patches onto repairs as I have chased rusty edges

Good luck with washing off the Nitromors. I have found that to be practically impossible at times, it is as if the stuff soaks into the metal surface. Leave the smallest trace and the paint will never dry!

[davidmiles]

I've picked up some front wings for £40, bargain. There's quite a bit of work to be done on these by the look of them, but I think they are very useable.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

there's a bit of bubbling and rust going on at the headlamp apertures. I'll have to get that paint off before I know more.

[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

from the insides they both look fairly solid[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

Left side one looks pritty much the same.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

Finally got my cab sill boxer sections in, had some advice on here about fitting these, had to cut them in behind the door pillers, quite hard work and a lot of cutting seperating the floor and pillers and trial fittings. I was very encouraged that the cover plates didn't interfere with the doors closing. I'm happy with that bit, now Ive got this rear panel to fit, can anbody tell me if they are bolted on or welded. My welding has improved quite a lot lately and I wonder if its true to original to weld these in place?[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

The retained bolt, in the b post that pins the side panel and rear panel just keeps rotating, it's not fixed inside the B post so I'm going to weld it in there so I can use it. I guess the front of the tub floor welds to the top of this panel ?

[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

Also receiving reust treatment is this rear tub floor half, its only light surface rust from storage, but its all got to go.[frame][/frame]

[WPR678B]

can anbody tell me if they are bolted on or welded. My welding has improved quite a lot lately and I wonder if its true to original to weld these in place?

It is NOT welded to the cab, but it is welded to the load bay floor and then to the side panel of the rear end. Originally they were just spot welded together.
Whatever you do, do not weld the top panel to the door posts!

[davidmiles]

Quite right, that would prove disasterous when you go to fit the side panels around the B posts. What I intend to do is weld in the B post retained bolts and re drill them. at the moment they're turning around and around and driving me nuts. Hope I don't have to weld all of them, there's quite a few in the ring around the rear of the cab. mind you its only the boxed in one's I need to worry about, the one's over the cab roof are standard free nut and bolt.

[davidmiles]

The annoying nuts were welded into place and unmovable replacement bolts welded over the top of them.[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

I'm trial fitting the rear floor panels to see how they assemble together, it looks too high above the wheel and far too flimsey at this stage.
[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

the clamp helps hold the floor, with some help of timber spacers standing in for a rear valance, (on order from bull motif)
is this the right connection location for the floor front edge?[frame][/frame]

[davidmiles]

The space between the floor panels seems to be very wide too. (better scope out some stiff plywood in the future)[frame][/frame]

[aupickup]

]The annoying nuts were welded into place and unmovable replacement bolts welded over the top of them

these should be captive nuts, then the back is bolted to them

[jonathon]

As Dennis mentions the nuts should be captive nuts inside the B post. Welding on bolts will not allow the cab back or pickup back to bolt up correctly. These need removing and re doing as original.
When mocking up the rear it might be wise to fit the cab back to one give the correct spacing and two make sure that the cab is square.
Have you been in touch with the LCV register ? they may be able to save you time,by showing you the correct method of assembly.

[aupickup]

if u want david i can allwyas pop up

[davidmiles]

Thanks guys, I'll make it a personal priority to get in touch with the LCV register.