I have booked my car in to have a new master cylinder fitted for the brakes as mine is the original and not sealing properly, causing the brakes to fail! Big time! Any ideas on how long you think it should take a mechanic to change?
Appreciate any ideas
Pricing Question?!
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- Minor Fan
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- Minor Maniac
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Re: Pricing Question?!
but surely you got a price from the garage for the work before agreeing to book it in for the work
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Re: Pricing Question?!
Hopefully the screws to release the m/c cover plate will come out ok.
Front brake pipe (side joint of the rear T-piece) comes off next (from underneath).
Rear pipe connection is easier to do when the m/c is out of the chassis leg - therefore best to disconnect that pipe at the rear axle flexi hose first.
Then, levering the torsion bar out of the way to release (and refit) the bolts allows the m/c to slide back in the chassis leg and be lifted up and over the pedal push-rod. Then it will come forwards and straight out of the leg.
When it's out of the leg, the rear brake pipe can be removed from the back of the T-piece.
Refitting is the same but reverse order. If the rest of the brakes were working ok, then bleeding the front and rear pipe where you disconnected can be enough if you're lucky.
Otherwise it may need bleeding at all 4 corners.
Best case, using best method and no mishaps - just over an hour!
Normal time is probably about 2 hours +
Worst cases:
1) The pipes shear off at the connectors, so new pipes needed.
or
2) the brake pipes have been overtightened and the flare nuts are distorted so they won't re-fit...
[for #1 and #2, you can just order the 2 pipes before doing the job anyway - sometimes getting extra parts just in case is the path of least resistance]
3) the screws to the m/c cover chew up so need to be drilled out.
4) the floor is really rotten making it impractical to lever the torsion bar out of the way.
5) The brakes refuse to bleed up properly due to a faulty m/c (been there & done that & wasted approx 5 hours time for 2 people...)
6) The mechanic tries to get the cylinder out of the chassis leg with the pushrod still in it and snaps the pushrod off the pedal.
7) The wheel cylinder bleed nipples shear off so you need new cylinders, and some more pipes needed whilst doing them etc..
Worst case time - as long as it takes!
Front brake pipe (side joint of the rear T-piece) comes off next (from underneath).
Rear pipe connection is easier to do when the m/c is out of the chassis leg - therefore best to disconnect that pipe at the rear axle flexi hose first.
Then, levering the torsion bar out of the way to release (and refit) the bolts allows the m/c to slide back in the chassis leg and be lifted up and over the pedal push-rod. Then it will come forwards and straight out of the leg.
When it's out of the leg, the rear brake pipe can be removed from the back of the T-piece.
Refitting is the same but reverse order. If the rest of the brakes were working ok, then bleeding the front and rear pipe where you disconnected can be enough if you're lucky.
Otherwise it may need bleeding at all 4 corners.
Best case, using best method and no mishaps - just over an hour!
Normal time is probably about 2 hours +
Worst cases:
1) The pipes shear off at the connectors, so new pipes needed.
or
2) the brake pipes have been overtightened and the flare nuts are distorted so they won't re-fit...
[for #1 and #2, you can just order the 2 pipes before doing the job anyway - sometimes getting extra parts just in case is the path of least resistance]
3) the screws to the m/c cover chew up so need to be drilled out.
4) the floor is really rotten making it impractical to lever the torsion bar out of the way.
5) The brakes refuse to bleed up properly due to a faulty m/c (been there & done that & wasted approx 5 hours time for 2 people...)
6) The mechanic tries to get the cylinder out of the chassis leg with the pushrod still in it and snaps the pushrod off the pedal.
7) The wheel cylinder bleed nipples shear off so you need new cylinders, and some more pipes needed whilst doing them etc..
Worst case time - as long as it takes!
Ray. MMOC#47368. Forum moderator.
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block
Jan 06: The Minor SII Africa adventure: http://www.minor-detour.com
Oct 06: back from Dresden with my Trabant 601 Kombi
Jan 07: back from a month thru North Africa (via Timbuktu) in a S3 Landy
June 07 - back from Zwickau Trabi Treffen
Aug 07 & Aug 08 - back from the Lands End to Orkney in 71 pickup
Sept 2010 - finally gave up breaking down in a SII Landy...
where to break down next?
2013... managed to seize my 1275 just by driving it round the block

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- Minor Fan
- Posts: 101
- Joined: Wed Dec 09, 2009 5:12 pm
- Location: Chelmsford, Essex
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Re: Pricing Question?!
Wow! What a description! What a guy!
Thanks so much, I'll think I'll get those pipes just in case.
Thanks again.
Thanks so much, I'll think I'll get those pipes just in case.
Thanks again.
Re: Pricing Question?!
If the garage are not used to Minors - I can see them happily taking all day - especially if you are paying by the hour. Get a FIXED PRICE for the job before letting them loose on it!



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- Minor Fan
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- Joined: Wed Dec 09, 2009 5:12 pm
- Location: Chelmsford, Essex
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